72-hour expedition

City ofVerona.

A Roman amphitheatre still staging opera, the finest Romanesque churches in northern Italy, a perfectly preserved medieval city on a river bend — and yes, a balcony. But Shakespeare never came here.

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Verona
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The Arena, Piazza Bra & the Roman CityBegin where everyone begins — the Arena — then find the Roman theatre, the arch, the gates and the streets the tourists never reach.

Roman Verona

9 stops
Morning — The Arena
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Arena di Verona
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📍 Piazza Bra · Centre · UNESCO World Heritage
The third largest Roman amphitheatre in the world — built in the 1st century AD, seating 30,000, and still in use as an opera venue every summer since 1913. The pink-and-white Veronese marble of the interior tiers, the four remaining arches of the outer ring (the rest collapsed in a 1183 earthquake), and the scale of the ellipse are all original Roman construction. No restoration, no reconstruction — just 2,000 years of continuous use. The summer opera season (June–September) stages Aida, Nabucco and Turandot with casts of hundreds and live horses on stage.
3rd largest Roman amphitheatre · 1st century AD · Opera since 1913 · Original pink marble · UNESCO
🕘Daily 09:00–19:00 (opera season closes earlier on performance days) · €10
🍽Cafés on Piazza Bra (expensive) · Better: Osteria del Duca off Piazza delle Erbe
🚻Inside
3rd largest Roman arena · WorldOpera since 1913UNESCO
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Arena at Dawn — Before the Crowds
07:30 · Empty Piazza Bra
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⏰ Piazza Bra at 07:30 · Free exterior · No crowds until 09:30
Piazza Bra before 09:00 belongs to Veronesi — the morning joggers circling the arena, the café owners setting out chairs, the pigeons and the extraordinary pink stone glowing in the early light without a tour group in sight. The arena exterior is always visible and free. The four surviving arches of the outer ring (called the Ala — the Wing) catch the morning sun from the east. This is how the arena looked every morning for 2,000 years before mass tourism. It is still this way, for approximately 90 minutes.
Empty piazza · Morning light on pink marble · Joggers not tourists · Free exterior
🕘Always accessible · Free exterior · Best 07:00–09:00
🍽Pasticceria Flego (Via Stella) — best cornetto and cappuccino in Verona, open from 07:00
Empty · Dawn light · Free07:30–09:00 window
Morning — Roman Remains
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Teatro Romano & Archaeological Museum
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📍 Regaste Redentore 2 · North bank of the Adige
A Roman theatre carved into the hillside on the north bank of the Adige — 1st century BC, contemporary with the Arena, and even more atmospheric because it is far less visited. The cavea (seating tiers) is cut into the rock of the Colle San Pietro hill; the stage building is partially reconstructed. The Archaeological Museum above it (accessible by lift through the cliff) occupies a former convent with extraordinary Roman mosaics, bronze sculptures and portrait busts. The view from the museum terrace — across the Adige to the red rooftops and towers of the old city — is one of the finest in Verona.
1st c. BC Roman theatre · Rock-cut cavea · Museum with Roman mosaics · Adige panorama
🕘Tue–Sun 09:00–19:00 · Mon closed · Combined ticket with Arena available
🍽Museum terrace café · Osterie in Veronetta quarter below
🚻Inside museum
1st c. BC · Rock-cutMuseum terrace viewFewer tourists
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Porta Borsari & Porta Leoni
Roman gates · Still standing
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📍 Corso Porta Borsari & Via Leoni · Old city centre
Two Roman city gates from the 1st century AD still standing in the middle of the living city — not in a museum, not fenced off, just incorporated into the street plan that grew around them over 2,000 years. Porta Borsari (on the main shopping street Corso Porta Borsari) has its original marble facade with two arched passageways and decorative pilasters. Porta Leoni (Via Leoni) shows the Roman street level exposed in an excavation pit beside the gate — the original road is 2 metres below the modern one.
1st c. AD Roman gates · In the living city · Original marble · Roman street level exposed
🕘Always accessible · Free · No entry fee · Just walk up to them
Roman gates · Free · In the street2m below modern level
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Ponte Pietra — Roman Bridge
Roman arches · Still crossing
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📍 North end of old city · Crossing the Adige
The oldest bridge in Verona — two original Roman arches from the 1st century BC still carrying pedestrians and cyclists across the Adige, flanked by medieval and Renaissance rebuilds. The bridge was blown up by retreating German forces in 1945; the original Roman stones were fished from the riverbed and the bridge was rebuilt arch by arch using the original material in 1959. The view from the bridge looking west along the river bend — the Adige green below, the Roman theatre on the hill to the north, the city skyline to the south — is the classic Verona panorama.
Roman arches 1st c. BC · Original stones fished from river · Classic Verona panorama · Free
🕘Always open · Free · Best in morning and evening light
🍽Gelateria on the south bank · Osteria in Veronetta on the north bank
Roman arches · Free · Rebuilt from river 1959
Afternoon — Piazza delle Erbe
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Piazza delle Erbe — The Herb Market
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📍 Former Roman forum · Centre of Verona
The Roman forum of Verona, now the city market square — oval in shape (preserving the Roman ellipse), enclosed by palaces from every century between the 14th and 18th, with a fountain (1368), a market column, a Venetian lion on a column, and the Torre dei Lamberti above everything. The frescoed facades of the Case Mazzanti on the east side are the finest in Verona. The market stalls selling produce, souvenirs and tourist tat occupy the same ground that Roman merchants used 2,000 years ago. Walk through quickly, buy nothing, then stand at the south end and look north at the full ensemble.
Roman forum shape preserved · Frescoed palaces · Torre dei Lamberti · Venetian lion · 14th-c. fountain
🕘Always open · Market daily · Torre dei Lamberti: daily 10:00–18:00 · Lift or 368 steps
🍽Caffè Tubino (oldest café in Verona, Via Cappello) · Osteria del Duca nearby · Avoid square cafés
🚻Torre dei Lamberti · Nearby bars
Roman forum oval preservedFrescoed facadesTorre dei Lamberti
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Scaligeri Tombs (Arche Scaligere)
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📍 Via Arche Scaligere · Next to Sant'Anastasia
The outdoor mausoleum of the Scaligeri family — the medieval lords who ruled Verona from 1262 to 1387 and made it one of the most powerful cities in northern Italy. Five Gothic marble sarcophagi on stone columns, surrounded by a wrought-iron enclosure bearing the ladder symbol of the Scaligeri (scala = ladder). The largest canopied tomb (Cangrande II, died 1359) is 10 metres tall and combines French Gothic carving, Italian marble inlay and equestrian sculpture in a uniquely hybrid form. Free to view from outside the fence.
Gothic marble tombs 14th c. · Scaligeri dynasty · Equestrian sculpture · Free exterior view
🕘Exterior always accessible and free · Interior requires ticket (rarely worth it)
Gothic mausoleum · Free exteriorScaligeri dynasty
Evening — Aperitivo & Dinner
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Aperitivo & Veronese Wine Culture
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🍷 Piazza delle Erbe area · Enotece · From 18:00
Verona sits at the centre of three of the most important wine DOC zones in Italy: Valpolicella (the red, including Amarone and Ripasso), Soave (the white, from the volcanic hills east of the city) and Bardolino (light red from the Lake Garda shore). Aperitivo hour (18:00–20:00) at a Verona enoteca means a glass of Valpolicella Superiore or a Soave Classico with free nibbles — arancini, bruschetta, salumi. The Enoteca del Zovo (Via S. Marco in Foro) and Osteria Il Sacrestano are the most local options near the old city.
Amarone · Valpolicella · Soave · Bardolino · All within 30 km · Aperitivo from 18:00
🕘Enotece from 17:00 · Aperitivo 18:00–20:00 · Dinner from 20:00
🍽Pastissada de caval (horse stew, the Veronese dish) · Risotto all'Amarone · Pearà sauce
Amarone & Soave DOCFree aperitivo nibblesHorse stew (local)
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Romanesque Churches, the Balcony & Castel San PietroThe finest Romanesque basilica in northern Italy, the balcony (handled honestly), and the view from the hill that Verona forgot to advertise.

Churches & Views

8 stops
Morning — San Zeno Basilica
Basilica di San Zeno Maggiore
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📍 Piazza San Zeno · West of centre · 15 min walk
The finest Romanesque church in northern Italy — built 1120–1138 over the tomb of San Zeno (Verona's patron saint, died 380 AD) with a facade of pink and white Veronese marble, a rose window of exceptional quality, 48 bronze door panels from the 11th and 12th centuries depicting scenes from the Old and New Testament, and a crypt where the saint is still venerated. Inside: Mantegna's San Zeno Altarpiece (1457–59), the most important painting in Verona, showing the Madonna enthroned in a trompe-l'oeil marble loggia that extends the real architecture of the church into the painted panel.
Finest Romanesque in N. Italy · Bronze doors 11th c. · Mantegna altarpiece 1457 · San Zeno crypt
🕘Mon–Sat 09:30–18:00 · Sun 12:30–18:00 · Small fee
🍽Bar next to the basilica · Osterie on Via Barbarani
🚻Inside
Finest Romanesque in N. ItalyMantegna altarpieceBronze doors 11th c.
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Sant'Anastasia — Gothic Interior
Pisanello fresco · Rarely crowded
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📍 Piazza Sant'Anastasia · Near Scaligeri Tombs
Verona's largest Gothic church (begun 1290, never fully completed — the facade is still bare brick) contains one of the greatest frescoes of the International Gothic style: Pisanello's Saint George and the Princess (c.1433–38), a panel above the Pellegrini chapel doorway showing a knight preparing to fight a dragon, with the most detailed rendering of late medieval armour and horse equipment in existence. The two hunchback holy water stoups at the entrance (I Gobbi — the Hunchbacks) are famous Veronese eccentricities.
Pisanello fresco c.1433 · Gothic interior · I Gobbi hunchbacks · Unfinished facade · Peaceful
🕘Mon–Sat 10:00–18:00 · Sun 13:00–18:00 · Small fee
🍽Caffè Tubino (oldest in Verona) on Via Cappello nearby
Pisanello fresco 1433Gothic interiorI Gobbi hunchbacks
Afternoon — The Balcony & Castel San Pietro
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Casa di Giulietta — The Honest Visit
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📍 Via Cappello 23 · 2 min from Piazza delle Erbe
A 13th-century house with a 20th-century balcony added in 1935 by the city, which decided the tourism potential of being "Juliet's house" outweighed the inconvenience of Shakespeare having set a fictional play in Verona without visiting and invented a fictional family. The courtyard contains a bronze Juliet statue (1972) whose right breast is rubbed shiny by superstitious visitors. The walls are covered in love notes and padlocks. The house is privately run and charges entry. Visit the courtyard free (it is genuinely remarkable as a cultural phenomenon), skip the paid interior.
Balcony added 1935 · Courtyard free · Bronze Juliet statue (1972) · Wall of love notes · Phenomenon
🕘Courtyard always open · Free · House interior: Tue–Sun 09:00–19:00 · €6 (skip it)
🍽Avoid the tourist restaurants on Via Cappello · Walk to Via Sottoriva for local trattorie
Balcony added 1935Courtyard freeShakespeare never came here
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Castel San Pietro & the View
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📍 Via Castel San Pietro · North bank · Funicular or stairs
The hill above the Roman theatre on the north bank of the Adige — site of a Roman castellum, then a Visconti fortress, then an Austrian military barracks (1853, now a police academy), with a public terrace at the top. The view from the terrace is the most famous in Verona: the entire horseshoe bend of the Adige below, the red rooftops of the old city, the Arena visible above the roofline, the Dolomites on the horizon on clear mornings. A funicular runs from the riverside; the stairs take 10 minutes. Go at golden hour.
Best panorama in Verona · Adige horseshoe bend · Arena visible · Dolomites on clear days
🕘Always accessible · Free stairs · Funicular: daily 09:00–20:00 · €1.30 single
🍽Small bar at the top · Better to bring wine and watch the sunset
Best panorama in VeronaDolomites viewGolden hour
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Via Sottoriva — The Hidden Riverbank
Local street · Medieval arcades
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🚶 South bank of Adige · Between Ponte Pietra and Ponte Nuovo
Via Sottoriva is a medieval arcaded street running along the south bank of the Adige — its name means "under the bank." Low medieval arches shelter the pavement from the rain; the houses above lean slightly toward the river; the bars and trattorie under the arches serve students from the adjacent university and locals who know better than to eat on Piazza delle Erbe. The street has the specific quality of being unremarkable to residents and extraordinary to anyone arriving from the tourist centre 200 metres away.
Medieval arcades · Riverbank · Student bars · University quarter · Local trattorie
🕘Always open · Best in the evening when the university crowd fills the bars
🍽Osteria al Duca di Dorian · Trattoria al Pompiere (since 1910) · Osteria Sottoriva 23
Medieval arcades · Student bars200m from tourists
Evening — Opera or Dinner
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Arena Opera Season (Jun–Sep)
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🎭 Piazza Bra · June–September · Book weeks ahead
The Arena di Verona opera season runs June to September — full-scale productions of Aida, Nabucco, Turandot and Carmen staged in the Roman amphitheatre with casts of 200+, live animals, and the audience seated on the original 2,000-year-old marble tiers. The tradition of each audience member bringing a candle (now a small wax torch) that is lit at nightfall transforms the 22,000-seat arena into a field of candlelight before the performance begins. Unreserved stone seats from €32; numbered seats from €80. Bring a cushion for the marble.
Aida · Nabucco · Turandot · 22,000 seats · Candlelight opening · Live animals on stage
🕘Jun–Sep · Performances start 21:00 · Book at arena.it · Stone seats from €32 · Bring a cushion
🍽Dinner before 20:00 · Bring snacks for stone seats · Interval drinks inside the arena
Jun–Sep onlyFrom €32Bring a cushion
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Castelvecchio, Valpolicella & OnwardThe Scaligeri fortress museum, a morning in the wine hills above the city, then Lake Garda or the train to Venice or Milan.

Castelvecchio & Beyond

7 stops
Morning — Castelvecchio
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Castelvecchio & Museo Civico
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📍 Corso Castelvecchio 2 · West end of old city · Adige riverside
The Scaligeri fortress on the Adige (1354–1376) — a red-brick castle with seven towers, a covered bridge (Ponte Scaligero) spanning the river, and the finest civic art museum in Verona. The museum was redesigned in 1964 by Carlo Scarpa — the most celebrated museum renovation of the 20th century — who exposed the medieval and Roman structural layers within the castle walls, inserted contemporary steel and concrete walkways through the historic fabric, and placed each object in dialogue with the architecture around it. The Equestrian Statue of Cangrande I (originally from the Scaligeri Tombs, a replica now stands there) is the centrepiece.
Carlo Scarpa renovation 1964 · Cangrande equestrian statue · Ponte Scaligero · Masterpiece of museology
🕘Tue–Sun 10:00–18:00 · Mon closed · €6 · Free first Sunday of month
🍽Museum café in the courtyard · Riverside walk to Ponte Scaligero after
🚻Inside
Carlo Scarpa 1964 · MasterworkCangrande statuePonte Scaligero
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Valpolicella — Morning in the Wine Hills
30 min drive · Amarone country
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🚗 30 min northwest of Verona · Hire car or tour
The Valpolicella Classica zone — the hills northwest of Verona producing Amarone della Valpolicella, the most intense red wine in Italy — is 30 minutes by car. The villages of Sant'Ambrogio, San Pietro in Cariano and Fumane sit among terraced vineyards of Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara grapes. The Amarone process (drying the grapes on bamboo racks for 90–120 days before fermentation) produces a wine of 15–17% alcohol and extraordinary complexity. Allegrini, Masi and Bertani all have tasting rooms open to visitors. The landscape — steep terraced hills, Roman-era farm buildings, the plain of Verona below — is as fine as anything in Tuscany.
Amarone production · Grape drying racks · Allegrini & Masi tastings · Terraced hills · 30 min
🕘Wineries open Mon–Sat 09:00–18:00 · Book tasting in advance · Half day sufficient
🍽Trattoria dalla Rosa Alda (Sant'Ambrogio) · Wine and polenta in the hills
Amarone country · 30 minGrape drying racksAllegrini & Masi
Day Trip or Onward
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Lake Garda — 30 min by bus
Sirmione · Malcesine · Ferries
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🚌 Bus from Verona Porta Nuova · 30–45 min to Peschiera
Lake Garda is 30 minutes west of Verona — the largest lake in Italy, 52km long, with a southern shore of flat Venetian plain (vineyards, olive groves, Bardolino and Lugana wine) and a northern shore closing into Alpine fjord scenery with cliffs dropping to the water. Sirmione (Roman villa of Catullus, a Scaligeri castle on a narrow peninsula) is the essential stop. The ferry system connects all shore towns. Malcesine on the east shore (cable car to Monte Baldo, 1760m, paragliders launching over the lake) is the most dramatic landscape available.
Sirmione · Roman villa of Catullus · Scaligeri castle · Malcesine cable car · Ferry connections
🕘Bus from Verona hourly · Sirmione: always · Malcesine cable car: daily 08:00–18:00
🍽Grilled lake fish (persico, lavarello) · Lugana white wine · Olive oil from Garda groves
Sirmione · Roman villa30 min from VeronaFerry network
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Verona Porta Nuova — Rail Connections
🚄 High-speed trains from Verona Porta Nuova station
Verona is on the main Milan–Venice high-speed line and has excellent connections in all directions. Trenitalia and Italo both serve the station.
🚄Venice (Venezia Santa Lucia): 1 hr 10 min · Frecciarossa · Every 30–60 min
🚄Milan (Milano Centrale): 1 hr 20 min · Frecciarossa · Frequent
🚄Bologna: 55 min · Florence: 1 hr 50 min · Rome: 3 hrs 20 min
✈️Verona Airport (VRN): Bus 12 from station · 15 min · Catullo Airport
Venice 70 minMilan 80 minRome 3h20
Veronese Phrase Bath

Verona speaks Italian with a Venetian-influenced accent — slightly sing-song, vowels slightly clipped compared to Tuscan Italian. The Veronese dialect (Veronese) is still spoken by older residents but Italian works everywhere. Speaking any Italian is warmly received; Veronesi are proud of their city and enjoy explaining it. Tap to copy. Salute!

Greetings
Good morning
Buongiorno!
bwon-JOR-no
Good morning — use until about 13:00, then switch to "Buon pomeriggio" or just "Salve"
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Good evening
Buonasera!
bwona-SAY-ra
Good evening — from about 17:00 onward, used entering any shop, bar or restaurant
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Thank you
Grazie mille!
GRA-tsye MIL-le
A thousand thanks — more enthusiastic than plain "grazie", always appreciated
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You're welcome / Please
Prego.
PRAY-go
You're welcome / please / after you / go ahead — the most versatile word in Italian
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Getting Around
Where is the Arena?
Dov'è l'Arena?
do-VAY la-RAY-na
Where is the Arena? — replace l'Arena with any landmark
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Is it far on foot?
È lontano a piedi?
ay lon-TAH-no ah PYAY-dee
Is it far on foot? — Verona is walkable; most things are not far
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Ticket
Un biglietto, per favore.
un bil-YET-to, pair fa-VO-ray
One ticket, please.
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Restaurants & Wine
Table for two
Un tavolo per due, per favore.
un TA-vo-lo pair DOO-ay
A table for two, please.
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Local wine
Un Valpolicella, per favore.
un val-po-li-CHEL-la
A Valpolicella please — the local red. For the full experience ask for "Valpolicella Superiore" or "Ripasso"
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The local dish
Avete la pastissada de caval?
a-VAY-tay la pas-ti-SA-da de ka-VAL
Do you have horse stew? — the Veronese dialect dish, slow-braised horse meat in wine. The city dish since the 5th century.
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The bill
Il conto, per favore.
il KON-to, pair fa-VO-ray
The bill, please — in Italy you must ask; it will never arrive uninvited
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Toasts & Essentials
Cheers
Salute!
sa-LOO-tay
Cheers! (lit. health) — always eye contact, always. "Cin cin!" (chin chin) is also common and more festive.
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Toilet
Dov'è il bagno?
do-VAY il BAN-yo
Where is the toilet? — "bagno" in a private house; "toilette" or "servizi" on signs
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Compliment the city
Che bella città!
kay BEL-la chit-TA
What a beautiful city! — Veronesi will agree with complete sincerity and may continue for several minutes
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Copiato!