Every Renaissance painter used it as backdrop — the rolling hills of cypress and olive, the white gravel roads (strade bianche) dissolving into the heat haze, the hilltop towers of San Gimignano, the exact curve of the Val d'Orcia valley that every Madonna thereafter repeated. The food is the best in Italy. The wine (Chianti, Brunello, Vino Nobile, Vernaccia) is the most misunderstood. The landscape is UNESCO. Drive slowly. Stop on every hill. April and October are when it all turns gold.