72-hour expedition

City of a Hundred SpiresPrague.

The only Central European capital that survived WWII with its historic fabric almost entirely intact — Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque and Art Nouveau layered on the same streets. The best beer in the world. A castle complex the size of a small town. And the most celebrated astronomical clock in existence, which is — honestly — a little disappointing up close.

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Old Town, the Charles Bridge & the ClockThe medieval core before the tour groups arrive, the bridge that should only be crossed on foot before 08:00, and the clock that crowds wait an hour to watch do almost nothing.

Staré Město & the Bridge

9 stops
Dawn — Old Town Square Empty
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Old Town Square at Dawn
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⏰ 06:30–08:30 · Staroměstské náměstí · Free · No crowds
The most photogenic square in Central Europe — the Týn Church twin spires, the Baroque St Nicholas Church, the Astronomical Clock on the Old Town Hall, the pastel facades of the merchant houses, and the Gothic Kinský Palace, all surrounding a cobbled square that during the day is so crowded it is barely navigable. Before 08:00 it is empty except for pigeons, the occasional delivery vehicle, and visitors who read the right advice. The morning light from the east catches the Týn Church spires and turns the medieval stonework gold. This is what Prague looked like every morning for 600 years before mass tourism.
Týn Church spires · Astronomical Clock · Baroque facades · Best before 08:00 · Free
🕘Always open · Free · Best 06:30–08:30 · Clock strikes hourly · Square fills by 09:30
🍽Kavárna Café Louvre (nearby, opens 08:00) · Bakery on Dlouhá from 07:00
Empty before 08:00 · Dawn on Týn spiresFreeMost photogenic square CEE
Prague Astronomical Clock (Orloj)
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📍 Old Town Hall · Since 1410 · Strikes hourly
The third-oldest astronomical clock in the world and the only one still operating — installed in 1410, with additions in 1490. Every hour, the Apostle figures parade in the two windows above the clock face while Death rings a bell and the mechanical cock crows. The show lasts about 45 seconds. Tourists wait up to an hour to see it. The honest assessment: the clock mechanism and the astronomical face (showing solar time, sidereal time, Babylonian time, the position of the sun and moon simultaneously) are genuinely extraordinary. The hourly show is not. Come at a quiet hour, watch it once, and spend the rest of your time looking at the dial itself.
Since 1410 · 3rd oldest in world · Extraordinary dial · Apostles hourly · Don't wait an hour
🕘Clock face: always visible · Old Town Hall Tower: daily 09:00–22:00 · €15 for tower · Show hourly
🍽Nothing at the clock · Walk to Dlouhá Street for breakfast away from the tourist trap cafés
Since 1410 · Extraordinary dialHourly show: 45 seconds · Worth seeing once
Early Morning — Charles Bridge Before 08:00
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Charles Bridge at Dawn — The Only Time to Cross
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📍 Karlův most · 516 metres · 30 statues · Built 1357
The most famous bridge in Central Europe — built by Charles IV from 1357, 516 metres long, 30 Baroque statues lining the balustrades. By 10:00 in summer it is so crowded that walking at a normal pace is impossible; by noon it is a human traffic jam of selfie sticks, trinket sellers and tour groups. Before 08:00 it is completely empty except for the occasional fisherman and the morning mist off the Vltava. The 30 statues (mostly 17th–18th century copies — the originals are in the National Museum) include the most famous: St John of Nepomuk, whose base is polished gold from 600 years of hands touching it for luck. The Hradčany skyline from the bridge at dawn is the definitive image of Prague.
Built 1357 · 30 Baroque statues · Empty before 08:00 · Best Hradčany view · Mist on Vltava
🕘Always open · Free · Cross before 08:00 or after 21:00 · Impossible at midday in summer
🍽Nothing on the bridge · Café Certovka (Little Venice side, Malá Strana end) for coffee after
Cross before 08:00 · Never midday1357 · 30 statues · FreeBest Hradčany view
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Josefov — The Jewish Quarter
6 synagogues · Old Jewish Cemetery · Kafka's city
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📍 Jewish Quarter · Within Old Town · UNESCO
The former Jewish ghetto of Prague — one of the best-preserved in Europe, containing six synagogues and the Old Jewish Cemetery (where the dead were buried in layers up to 12 deep because the ghetto could not expand, the gravestones now tilted at every angle from soil pressure). The community dates from the 10th century; the ghetto was preserved from Ceaușescu-style demolition because the Nazis intended to create a museum of an "extinct race" here and kept the buildings intact for that purpose. Franz Kafka was born on the edge of the ghetto and lived most of his life within a few hundred metres of it.
6 synagogues · Old Jewish Cemetery · Kafka born here · Gravestones in layers 12 deep
🕘Jewish Museum combined ticket: ~€22 · Sun–Fri 09:00–18:00 · Sat closed · Cemetery moving
🍽Šisler Café (Maiselova) · Kavárna Nový Svět nearby
🚻Museum facilities
Nazi museum plan saved the buildingsKafka's neighbourhoodCemetery 12 layers deep
Evening — Czech Beer Culture
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Czech Beer — The World Standard
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🍺 Throughout Prague · From 40–80 CZK per half litre · ~€1.50–3
Czech beer is the global benchmark for lager — Bohemia invented the Pilsner style in 1842 when the city of Plzeň commissioned a Bavarian brewer to make a pale, clear, bottom-fermented beer using Bohemian Saaz hops and soft Bohemian water. The result was Pilsner Urquell, the first pale lager in history, the template for 90% of the beer produced on earth today. Czechs consume more beer per capita than any nation on earth. The correct way to drink Czech beer: in a half-litre glass (půllitr), slowly, in a pivnice (traditional Czech pub) where the tapster controls the pour with the precision of a sommelier. Avoid tourist trap pubs on Old Town Square.
Invented Pilsner 1842 · World's highest beer consumption per capita · 40–80 CZK a glass
🕘Traditional pivnice from 11:00 · Best evenings · Avoid tourist bars on Old Town Square
🍽U Zlatého Tygra (Husova 17, Kafka's pub, Václav Havel drank here) · Lokál (Dlouhá, best tank Pilsner)
Invented Pilsner 1842 · World's highest per capita€1.50–3 a glassAvoid tourist bars
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Prague Castle, Malá Strana & Petřín HillThe largest castle complex in the world by area, the Baroque neighbourhood below it, and the hill with the tower that Eiffel built first in Paris.

Hradčany & Malá Strana

9 stops
Morning — Prague Castle
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Prague Castle — Largest in the World by Area
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📍 Hradčany · 70,000 m² · UNESCO · Multiple tickets
The largest castle complex in the world by area — 70,000 square metres of interconnected palaces, churches, courtyards, gardens and lanes built over 1,000 years. St Vitus Cathedral (begun 1344, completed 1929 — 585 years of construction), the Old Royal Palace with the Vladislav Hall (the largest secular Gothic interior in Central Europe), the Golden Lane (miniature houses built into the castle walls, one of which Kafka rented for a winter to write), and the Rosenberg Palace. The complex sits on a cliff above the city, visible from everywhere. Arrive early — the tourist crowds are ferocious by 10:00.
Largest castle world · 70,000 m² · St Vitus Cathedral 585 yrs construction · Kafka's lane
🕘Grounds: daily 06:00–22:00 · Free to enter grounds · Circuit B ticket: €16 · Arrive before 09:00
🍽Castle café · Lobkowicz Palace restaurant (inside castle, excellent view) · Hradčany Square cafés
🚻Throughout the complex
Largest castle world · 70,000 m²585 years constructionKafka rented a house here
St Vitus Cathedral — 585 Years to Complete
Begun 1344 · Finished 1929 · Czech crown jewels inside
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📍 Inside Prague Castle · Gothic · Stained glass by Alfons Mucha
The cathedral begun by Charles IV in 1344 and completed — after 585 years, the longest cathedral construction in history — in 1929 for the 1,000th anniversary of the death of St Wenceslas. The Czech crown jewels are kept in a room with seven locks, each held by a different dignitary, so the room can only be opened when all seven key-holders are present. The stained glass in the nave includes a window designed by Alfons Mucha (1931) — the Art Nouveau master's most public religious commission, depicting the lives of Sts Cyril and Methodius. The golden mosaic of the Last Judgement (1370s) on the south exterior is the finest medieval mosaic north of the Alps.
585 yrs construction · Crown jewels (7 locks) · Mucha window · Last Judgement mosaic 1370s
🕘Included in castle ticket · Daily 09:00–17:00 · Free to view exterior · Nave requires castle circuit ticket
585 years built · 7-lock crown jewels roomMucha stained glass 1931
Afternoon — Malá Strana & Petřín
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Malá Strana — The Baroque Quarter
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📍 Lesser Town · Between Castle and Vltava · Below Hradčany
The Baroque quarter at the foot of the castle hill — palaces, embassies, churches and gardens that were built when the Czech nobility rebuilt Prague in the Viennese Baroque style after the Battle of White Mountain in 1620. The Wallenstein Palace garden (free, open May–September) has a wall covered in artificial stalactites and a bronze fountain by Adriaen de Vries. The St Nicholas Church (1703–1755, the most lavishly decorated Baroque church in Prague) has a ceiling fresco 1,500 square metres in size. The Vojanovy Sady garden (the oldest garden in Prague, now public) has peacocks walking loose. The Vrtba Garden (UNESCO, terraced Baroque, requires ticket) is the finest formal garden in Bohemia.
Baroque palaces · Wallenstein Garden (free) · St Nicholas ceiling 1,500 m² · Peacocks at Vojanovy
🕘Wallenstein Garden: Apr–Oct, daily, free · St Nicholas: daily 09:00–17:00 · €4 · Vrtba Garden: €6
🍽Café Savoy (Malá Strana, since 1893, Art Nouveau interior) · U Kocoura (local pub, Nerudova)
🚻Throughout the neighbourhood
Baroque palaces · Wallenstein Garden freeSt Nicholas 1,500m² frescoPeacocks loose
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Petřín Tower & the Mirror Maze
Eiffel's prototype · 1891 · Best view in Prague
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📍 Petřín Hill · Funicular from Újezd · Best view in Prague
A 63-metre steel observation tower built in 1891 for the Prague Industrial Exhibition — directly inspired by the Eiffel Tower (built two years earlier in Paris) and built at one-fifth the scale. From the top, the 360° panorama is the finest view of Prague available: the complete city with the river, the castle, the red-roofed Baroque quarter, and the forested hill directly below. The Petřín hill itself has orchards, rose gardens and the medieval Hunger Wall (built by Charles IV to provide employment during a famine). The Mirror Maze adjacent to the tower is a Victorian funfair installation of 1891 with a painted battle scene and a maze of angled mirrors — genuinely strange and worth €3.
Best 360° view Prague · Eiffel's prototype · Funicular up · Mirror Maze · Orchards and roses
🕘Tower: daily 10:00–22:00 · €12 · Funicular: SL transit card · Mirror Maze: €3 · Hill always free
🍽Nebozízek restaurant (halfway up the funicular, views, good) · Petřín hill picnic in summer
Best view Prague · 1/5 Eiffel scale · 1891Mirror Maze €3Funicular up
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Vinohrady, the Mucha Museum & Beyond the Tourist CentreThe Art Nouveau master in one room, the neighbourhood where Prague actually lives, and Vyšehrad — the fortress with the graves of every Czech who mattered.

Art Nouveau, Locals & History

9 stops
Morning — Mucha & Art Nouveau Prague
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Alfons Mucha Museum
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📍 Panská 7 · New Town · The complete Mucha collection
The most complete collection of Alfons Mucha's work outside the Slovanská epopej — his Art Nouveau posters for Sarah Bernhardt (the Gismonda poster of 1894 that made him famous overnight), the decorative panels, the jewellery designs, and the documentation of his career from Paris to Prague. Mucha (1860–1939) invented the sinuous, flower-crowned female figure that became the visual language of Art Nouveau and is still the most imitated decorative style in the world. The museum is in a Baroque palace, small enough to see in an hour, and contains the original lithographic stones for the poster series. The Slovanská epopej (Slav Epic, 20 enormous canvases) is Mucha's greatest work — displayed at the Veletržní Palace when on show.
Gismonda 1894 poster · Original lithographic stones · Sarah Bernhardt series · Art Nouveau origin
🕘Daily 10:00–18:00 · €15 · Allow 1 hour · Small but complete · No booking required
🍽Museum café · Kavárna Café Imperial (Na Poříčí 15, Art Nouveau interior) · Grand Café Orient
🚻Inside
Art Nouveau origin · Gismonda 1894Sarah Bernhardt series1 hour · No booking
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Municipal House (Obecní dům) — Art Nouveau at Full Scale
1912 · Mucha ceiling · Smetana Hall
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📍 náměstí Republiky 5 · New Town · Adjacent to Powder Tower
The most ambitious Art Nouveau building in Prague — completed 1912 as a Czech national cultural centre, with every surface (ceilings, walls, floors, ironwork, furniture) designed as a unified programme by different Czech artists. The Mayor's Salon (Primátorský sál) has an Alfons Mucha ceiling and walls — the only room in Prague where you can see Mucha's monumental decorative work in architectural context. The Smetana Concert Hall is the finest concert hall in Bohemia. The café and the French restaurant on the ground floor are still operating in their original Art Nouveau interiors. The building's cornerstone was laid on the site where the Royal Court had stood — Czech cultural assertion in architectural form.
Mucha ceiling and walls in Mayor's Salon · Smetana Concert Hall · Full Art Nouveau building · 1912
🕘Café: daily 07:30–23:00 · Tours: daily 11:00/15:00 · €20 for tour · Concert season Sep–Jun
🍽Kavárna Obecní dům (ground floor café, original interior, enter for coffee) · French restaurant inside
Mucha ceiling · Art Nouveau at full scale · 1912Enter just for the café
Afternoon — Vinohrady & Vyšehrad
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Vinohrady — The Neighbourhood Prague Lives In
No tourists · Art Nouveau apartments · Local cafés
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📍 Southeast of New Town · Metro A: Náměstí Míru
The most desirable residential neighbourhood in Prague — a grid of Art Nouveau and early Modernist apartment buildings from the 1890s–1930s, with the twin-spired neo-Gothic Church of St Ludmila on Náměstí Míru at the centre, and no significant tourist infrastructure whatsoever. The streets of Mánesova, Blanická and Korunní are where Prague's professional class, artists and journalists have lived for a century. The cafés (Café Slávia is too famous and too central — go to Cafeteria Kavárna on Mánesova, or Kavárna Místo on Blanická) serve the residents. The Saturday farmers market on Náměstí Míru is the best in the city.
Art Nouveau apartments · No tourists · Local cafés · Saturday market · Church of St Ludmila
🕘Always open · Free to walk · Metro A: Náměstí Míru · Saturday market 08:00–14:00
🍽Café Slávia (famous, tourist-facing) · Kavárna Místo (local) · Lokál Vinohrady · Maso u Řezníka
No tourists · Local Prague · Art Nouveau apartmentsSaturday market
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Vyšehrad — The Cemetery of Czech Greats
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📍 South of New Town · Cliff above the Vltava · Free · Metro C: Vyšehrad
The older of Prague's two fortresses — the mythological founding site of Prague, where the legendary princess Libuše prophesied the founding of a golden city. The fortress on the cliff above the Vltava contains the Vyšehrad Cemetery, where every significant Czech of the 19th and 20th centuries is buried: Antonín Dvořák, Bedřich Smetana, Alfons Mucha, Karel Čapek, Jan Neruda. The Slavín tomb at the cemetery's centre is a collective monument to Czech cultural achievement — a pantheon for national heroes. The fortress ramparts give the best upstream view of the Vltava and the castle. Almost no tourists come here compared to Hradčany.
Dvořák · Smetana · Mucha · Čapek buried here · Best upstream Vltava view · Almost no tourists
🕘Grounds: always open · Free · Cemetery: daily 08:00–19:00 · Free · Ramparts: always free
🍽Vyšehrad Café on the ramparts · Return to Vinohrady for dinner
🚻Cemetery grounds
Dvořák · Smetana · Mucha buried hereAlmost no touristsFree
Departure
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Prague Václav Havel Airport (PRG)
🚌 Bus 119 + Metro A · 45 min · Or Airport Express bus · €3
Prague Airport is 17km northwest. No direct metro or train connection — the best route is bus 119 from Nádraží Veleslavín (Metro A, green line), a 20-minute bus ride, total journey ~45 minutes from city centre. The Airport Express bus runs direct from the main railway station (Praha hlavní nádraží) in 35–45 minutes. Allow 2.5 hours before departure.
🚌Bus 119: Nádraží Veleslavín (Metro A) → Airport · 20 min · €1.50 transit ticket · Buy at metro
🚌Airport Express: Praha hlavní nádraží → Airport · 35–45 min · €4 · Every 30 min
Allow 2.5 hours · Terminal 1 for Schengen · Terminal 2 for non-Schengen · Check before travel
🚄Train to Vienna: EC/RJ trains · 4 hours · Multiple daily · Book at cd.cz or obb.at
Bus 119 · 45 min · €1.50Vienna by train 4hrs
Czech Phrase Bath

Czech (čeština) is a West Slavic language — closely related to Slovak, less so to Polish, and distantly to Russian. The háček (ˇ) over a letter makes it sound like "sh" (š), "ch" (č), "zh" (ž), or "r with a roll" (ř — the most difficult sound in Czech, found in no other language). The stress is always on the first syllable. Almost every Praguean under 50 speaks some English. Any attempt at Czech — even just "díky" (thanks) — produces genuine warmth. Na zdraví!

Greetings
Good day
Dobrý den!
DOB-ree den
Good day — formal, correct at any time. "Ahoj!" (A-hoy) is casual, used with friends and increasingly with strangers in Prague.
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Good morning
Dobré ráno!
DOB-reh RAH-no
Good morning — until about 10:00. The "é" is like the "e" in "bed" but slightly longer.
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Thanks (casual)
Díky!
DEE-kee
Thanks — very casual but warm. "Děkuji" (DYE-koo-yi) is more formal. Both always correct.
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Excuse me
Promiňte.
PRO-min-yeh-teh
Excuse me / I'm sorry — for getting attention or apologising. "Pardon" (the French word, used directly in Czech) also works.
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Getting Around
Where is Charles Bridge?
Kde je Karlův most?
gdeh yeh KAR-loov most
Where is Charles Bridge? — "kde je" = where is. Replace with any destination.
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One ticket please
Jízdenku, prosím.
YEEZ-den-koo PRO-seem
A ticket please — for metro, tram, bus. Buy at yellow machines or at trafika kiosks. 30-min €1, 90-min €1.50, 24-hr €6.
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How much does it cost?
Kolik to stojí?
KO-lik to STOY-ee
How much does it cost? — essential everywhere. Prague is cheap; if a price seems high you are in a tourist trap.
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Beer & Pubs
One beer please
Jedno pivo, prosím.
YED-no PI-vo PRO-seem
One beer please — pivo = beer. In a traditional Czech pub the waiter keeps a tally on a paper slip and brings you another beer without asking. Nod to continue, put your hand flat over the glass to stop.
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The definitive Czech dish
Svíčková na smetaně, prosím.
SVEECH-ko-va na SMEH-ta-nyeh
Svíčková please — sirloin in cream sauce with bread dumplings, cranberry and whipped cream. The defining Czech dish. Ordering it by name signals you know what you want.
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The bill
Účet, prosím.
OO-chet PRO-seem
The bill please — it will not arrive uninvited in Czech pubs. Tipping 10% is standard; round up to the next 10 CZK.
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Another one please
Ještě jedno, prosím.
YESH-tyeh YED-no
Another one please — the most used phrase in any Czech pub. Polite, efficient, always understood.
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Toasts & Czech Character
Cheers!
Na zdraví!
na ZDRA-vee
To health! — the Czech toast. Always eye contact. In Czech drinking culture, not making eye contact while toasting brings bad luck (specifically: seven years of bad sex). This is taken seriously.
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The Czech concept
Pohoda.
PO-ho-da
Comfort, ease, a good vibe — the Czech equivalent of hygge or lagom. Pohoda describes the state of relaxed wellbeing in a warm pub with good beer and good company. No direct English translation.
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Toilet
Kde je záchod?
gdeh yeh ZAH-khod
Where is the toilet? — often a small charge in pubs and tourist sites (5–10 CZK). Keep small coins.
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Zkopírováno!