72-hour expedition

BohemianKrumlov.

A 13th-century castle on a river bend, a perfectly preserved medieval town, Egon Schiele's chosen exile, baroque theatre with original machinery still working, and a forest that begins where the cobblestones end.

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Krumlov
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The Castle, the Tower & the Old TownArrive, climb the tower at sunset, walk the medieval streets, and eat svíčková in a vaulted cellar. The whole town fits inside a river bend.

Castle & Old Town

8 stops
Morning — Arrive & Orient
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Český Krumlov Castle
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📍 Zámek 59 · Above the Old Town · UNESCO World Heritage
The second largest castle complex in the Czech Republic after Prague — a 13th-century fortress expanded through Renaissance, Baroque and Rococo periods by the Rosenbergs and later the Schwarzenbergs. 40 buildings, 5 courtyards, a 300-metre bridge over a bear moat (the bears are still there), a Baroque theatre with original 17th-century stage machinery, and gardens terraced up a hillside above the Vltava. The castle and the town together are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Allow 3–4 hours for a thorough visit.
40 buildings · 5 courtyards · Bear moat · Baroque theatre · UNESCO · Vltava panorama
🕘Apr–Oct: Tue–Sun 09:00–17:00 (Jun–Aug until 18:00) · Nov–Mar limited · Book ahead in summer
🍽Castle restaurant in the 4th courtyard · Café in the gardens
🚻In each courtyard
UNESCO · 2nd largest castle in CZ40 buildingsBear moat
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Castle Tower (Hradní věž)
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📍 1st Castle Courtyard · Climb separately from castle tour
The castle's cylindrical Renaissance tower, painted in trompe-l'œil stonework, rises above the first courtyard and gives the most complete view available anywhere of the Vltava's horseshoe bend with the entire medieval town inside it. 162 steps in a tight spiral staircase. The view is worth every step — the red rooftops of the Old Town packed onto the river peninsula below, the castle complex spreading uphill behind, and forested hills in every direction. Go at golden hour if possible.
Best view of the river bend · Red rooftops below · 162 steps · Renaissance trompe-l'œil
🕘Apr–Oct: 09:00–17:00 · Separate ticket from castle tour
🍽Café in courtyard below
Best panorama in town162 stepsGolden hour
🐻
The Castle Bears
Since 1707
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📍 Bear Moat · Below the castle bridge · Free view from path
The moat between the first and second castle courtyards has been stocked with live brown bears since at least 1707 — possibly earlier, as the Rosenbergs kept exotic animals as status symbols. The current bears (Vok and Kateřina, plus recent cubs) are visible from the stone bridge above the moat and from the path below. The combination of a working medieval castle, a 300-year-old tradition, and actual brown bears in a moat is an entirely surreal piece of Bohemian aristocratic logic that has survived intact.
Live brown bears in the moat · Since 1707 · Free to view from path · Named Vok & Kateřina
🕘Always visible from path · Free · Bears most active morning & late afternoon
Since 1707Free viewBrown bears
Afternoon — Old Town
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Náměstí Svornosti — Old Town Square
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📍 Centre of the Old Town · Inside the river bend
The medieval market square at the centre of the Old Town — a compact cobbled rectangle with a Gothic town hall, a baroque plague column (1716), and Renaissance and Baroque burgher houses on all sides. The square is small enough to take in at a single glance but contains 600 years of architectural sediment. The town hall has a permanent exhibition on the history of Český Krumlov. The square is the social centre in summer evenings, when the restaurants put tables outside and the castle glows on the hill above.
Gothic town hall · Plague column 1716 · Renaissance burgher houses · 600 years of layers
🕘Always open · Free · Town hall museum Tue–Sun 10:00–18:00
🍽Restaurace Nové Město (local food) · Café on the square · Trdelník from street stalls
🚻Town hall · Cafés on square
Gothic · Baroque · 600 yearsFreeCastle views
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The River Bend Viewpoint — Křížová hora
Best view · Free · 10 min walk
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🚶 Cross the castle gardens · Up Křížová hora hill · Free
The best view of the entire river bend — looking DOWN from across the valley at the Vltava's horseshoe curve with the medieval town packed inside it and the castle rising on the far bank. Walk through the castle gardens, cross the valley, and climb 10–15 minutes to the Křížová hora (Cross Hill) stations of the cross path. The panoramic viewpoint gives a perspective the tower cannot: the whole scene at once, from outside the bend. This is the view on every postcard, and almost no one finds it.
Complete river bend view · Castle + town + river · Best in morning light · Almost no crowds
🕘Always accessible · Free · 10–15 min walk from castle gardens
🍽Bring water · Nothing at the top · Reward yourself at a cellar restaurant after
The real postcard viewFreeAlmost no one goes
Evening — Cellar Dining
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Svíčková & Bohemian Cellar Restaurants
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🍷 Vaulted cellars · Náměstí Svornosti area · From 17:00
Český Krumlov's restaurants occupy the Gothic and Renaissance cellars beneath the Old Town houses — vaulted stone rooms lit by candles where the temperature stays at 12°C year-round. The essential dish: svíčková na smetaně — beef sirloin slow-braised in root vegetables, served with a cream sauce, cranberries and bread dumplings (knedlíky). Order Kozel or Bernard dark lager. The setting — medieval stone vaults, candlelight, the castle above — makes even ordinary food feel ceremonial.
Vaulted stone cellars · Svíčková · Dark lager · Candlelight · 12°C year-round
🕘From 17:00 · Book ahead in summer (tourist season is intense)
🍽Krčma v Šatlavské (medieval cellar) · Papa's Living Restaurant · Restaurant Barbakán
Svíčková · KnedlíkyGothic vaultsDark lager
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Baroque Theatre, Schiele & the VltavaThe most complete surviving Baroque theatre in the world, Egon Schiele's studio, a raft down the Vltava, and the castle gardens at dusk.

Theatre, Schiele & River

8 stops
Morning — Baroque Theatre
🎭
Castle Baroque Theatre
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📍 4th Castle Courtyard · Guided tour required · Book ahead
The most complete surviving Baroque theatre in the world — built 1680–1682 and preserved essentially unaltered because the Schwarzenberg family stopped using it after 1766, locking it up with all its contents intact. Original 17th-century stage machinery (cloud machines, thunder drums, wave rollers, trapdoors), 13 original painted stage sets, 600 original Baroque costumes, and the original prompter's box and orchestra pit. Everything that was removed from other Baroque theatres in the name of modernisation is still here. Operational for rare special performances.
Most complete Baroque theatre in the world · Original 1680 machinery · 13 stage sets · 600 costumes
🕘Guided tours only · May–Oct · Very limited places · Book weeks ahead online
🍽Castle café in 4th courtyard after the tour
🚻In the castle complex
Most complete Baroque theatre · WorldOriginal 1680 machineryBook weeks ahead
🎪
Castle Riding School & Mint Tower
Always open · Free exterior
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📍 5th Castle Courtyard · Upper castle complex
The 5th courtyard contains the Baroque riding school (now used for performances and exhibitions), the mint tower where the Rosenbergs struck coins, and the terraced castle gardens extending to the south. The gardens (free, open until late) are the most peaceful place in the entire castle complex — formal French baroque parterres on the upper terrace, a rotating open-air theatre (Otáčivé hlediště) used for summer opera performances, and views back toward the castle at the far end.
Baroque riding school · Mint tower · Terraced gardens · Rotating open-air theatre
🕘Gardens free · Open Apr–Oct 07:00–19:00 · Rotating theatre performances Jun–Sep
🍽Café in gardens · Picnic on the parterres
Terraced gardens · FreeRotating open-air theatre
Afternoon — Egon Schiele & the Vltava
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Egon Schiele Art Centrum
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📍 Široká 71 · Old Town · Near the river
A dedicated museum for Egon Schiele — the Austrian Expressionist who was born in nearby Tulln and chose Český Krumlov as his retreat in 1911, painting the town obsessively from the hills above. He was arrested and imprisoned here for 24 days on charges of seducing a minor (almost certainly false) and producing pornographic art. The Centrum has a permanent collection of his work, his drawings of the town, and temporary exhibitions. The house also contains a printmaking workshop open to visitors.
Schiele's Krumlov paintings · His imprisonment story · Original drawings · Printmaking workshop
🕘Daily 10:00–18:00 (Nov–Mar until 17:00)
🍽Museum café · River views from the adjacent Latrán street
🚻Inside
Egon Schiele · ExpressionismImprisonment storyKrumlov paintings
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Rafting the Vltava — Renting a Raft
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🚣 Rental from Old Town · 1–3 hr float · ~300–500 CZK
The Vltava through Český Krumlov is Grade I–II (gentle, suitable for beginners) — a flat-water river with one small weir requiring a short portage. Rent a raft or canoe from the rental points on the Old Town waterfront and float the horseshoe bend, looking UP at the castle from the river. The perspective from the water — the castle directly above, the medieval town clinging to the riverbank, the forest closing in on both sides — is the most romantic view available and accessible for anyone. Return downstream takes 1–2 hours.
Castle from the water · Medieval riverbank · Grade I–II (easy) · Forest both sides
🕘Rentals Apr–Oct · From 09:00 · ~300–500 CZK per raft · Life jackets provided
🍽Riverside beer gardens along the route · Return shuttle arranged by rental companies
🚻At rental points · Riverside stops
Castle from the waterGrade I–II easy300–500 CZK
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Latrán Street — The Castle Quarter
No tourists · Local street
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🚶 Latrán Street · Below the castle · Between castle & Old Town
Latrán is the street connecting the castle complex to the Old Town bridge — a medieval lane of low Renaissance houses with arcaded ground floors, tucked between the castle rock and the Vltava. While tourists cluster on Náměstí Svornosti, Latrán has the butcher, the hardware shop, the Czech pub where no one speaks English and the beer costs half the price. The St. Jošt Chapel (13th century, free) at the northern end is almost always empty. The street captures the working town beneath the tourist surface.
Working medieval street · St. Jošt Chapel (13th c.) · Local pub · Half the tourist prices
🕘Always open · St. Jošt Chapel: usually open daytime · Free
🍽Na Louži pub (since 1898, local beer) — the most authentic dining in town
Local pub since 1898Working medieval streetHalf the prices
Evening — Castle Gardens at Dusk
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Castle Gardens at Dusk & the Cloak Bridge
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🌿 Castle gardens free · Open until 19:00 (Apr–Oct) · Cloak Bridge viewpoint
The castle gardens close at 19:00 but the Cloak Bridge (Plášťový most) — the dramatic three-storey arcade viaduct connecting the 4th and 5th castle courtyards above the valley — is accessible at dusk from the path below. The view from beneath the bridge: the stone arches stacked three levels high, the castle complex above, the forest valley below. In the evening, the tourist day-trippers have left and the town recovers a medieval quietness. Walk the lower town alleys after dark.
Cloak Bridge three-storey arcade · Gardens free · Medieval quiet after 18:00 · Firefly season (Jun)
🕘Gardens Apr–Oct until 19:00 · Cloak Bridge exterior always visible · Free
🍽Evening svíčková at Krčma v Šatlavské · Or Na Louži for local atmosphere
Free after day-trippers leaveCloak BridgeMedieval quiet
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Forest, Villages & OnwardThe Šumava forest at dawn, a village brewery, the market town of Třeboň, or the road to Vienna or Prague — all within reach.

Forest & Beyond

6 stops
Morning — Early Town & Monastery
St. Vitus Church & Minority Monastery
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📍 Horní ulice · Old Town · Free entry
The Gothic Church of St. Vitus (1407–1439) rises above the eastern edge of the Old Town — a single nave Gothic hall church with 15th-century frescoes, the Rosenberg family tombs, and an 18th-century organ that is still used for concerts. Beside it, the Minorite Monastery (13th century) has a cloister garden that is almost always empty and open. The combination of the Gothic church, the cloister garden and the view back over the rooftops toward the castle is one of the quietest moments available in summer Český Krumlov.
15th-century frescoes · Rosenberg tombs · 18th-c organ · Empty monastery cloister · Free
🕘Church: daily 09:00–17:00 · Monastery cloister: usually open daytime · Free
🍽Cloister garden for a quiet coffee with a thermos · Bakeries on Horní ulice
15th-century frescoesRosenberg tombsEmpty cloister
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Šumava Forest — Dawn Walk
Begins at town edge
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🥾 Forest paths from Křížová hora · 30 min from Old Town
The Šumava (Bohemian Forest) National Park begins effectively at the edge of Český Krumlov — the forested hills visible from the castle tower are the fringes of a 1,600 km² wilderness of spruce and beech forest, peat bogs, glacial lakes and river headwaters. Dawn walks from the Křížová hora viewpoint into the surrounding forest take you from medieval cobblestones to deep forest in 20 minutes. The forest is managed for lynx, otter, black stork and white-tailed eagle — though encounters require patience and early starts.
Šumava National Park · Dawn light · Lynx & otter habitat · 20 min from cobblestones · Free
🕘Always open · Dawn most beautiful · Mark trails on maps.cz app (Czech OS maps, best in region)
🍽Nothing in the forest · Breakfast back in town at a Czech bakery
Šumava NP · Dawn20 min from Old TownLynx habitat
Day Trip or Onward Options
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Třeboň — Fishponds & Spa Town
50 min · Carp capital
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🚌 Bus from Český Krumlov · 50 min
Třeboň is a Renaissance spa town 40km east — built by the Rosenbergs, surrounded by a network of 500 artificial fishponds (the largest carp-farming system in Europe, still in operation since the 15th century). The town has intact Renaissance walls, a castle, and the Regent Brewery (since 1379 — one of the oldest continuously operating breweries in Central Europe). The fishponds are a UNESCO-recognised cultural landscape. The carp from these ponds is the traditional Czech Christmas dinner: a Třeboň carp means something specific.
500 fishponds (UNESCO) · Regent Brewery 1379 · Renaissance walls · Carp capital · Spa tradition
🕘Bus from Krumlov daily · Half day is enough · Regent Brewery tours available
🍽Fried carp with potato salad (the classic) · Regent beer at the brewery restaurant
500 fishponds · UNESCORegent Brewery 137950 min away
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Getting Out — Prague, Vienna, Salzburg
🚌 RegioJet / FlixBus from Český Krumlov bus stop
Český Krumlov has no train station (the old branch line closed). All connections are by bus. RegioJet and FlixBus both serve the town with comfortable coaches.
🚌Prague (Praha): RegioJet · 3 hrs · Multiple daily · ~200–300 CZK
🚌Vienna (Wien): RegioJet · 3.5 hrs · 2–3 daily · ~300–500 CZK
🚌Salzburg: FlixBus · 2.5 hrs · Via Linz · ~€10–20
🚌České Budějovice (nearest rail hub): Bus 10 · 45 min · Frequent · Connects to all CZ trains
Book RegioJet online in advance — coaches sell out in summer
Prague 3 hrsVienna 3.5 hrsSalzburg 2.5 hrs
Czech Phrase Bath

Czech (čeština) is a West Slavic language — related to Slovak and Polish, nothing like German or Hungarian. The ř sound (Dvořák, Krumlov) is unique to Czech: a rolled r and a zh sound simultaneously. Nobody expects you to get it right. Locals in Český Krumlov speak tourist English in summer, but Czech is always appreciated. Tap to copy. Na zdraví!

Greetings
Hello (formal)
Dobrý den!
DOB-ree den
Good day — the standard formal greeting. Use with adults you don't know.
📋
Hello (casual)
Ahoj!
AH-hoy
Hi! — casual greeting for younger people and informal situations
📋
Thank you
Děkuji!
DYEH-koo-yi
Thank you — "Díky" (DEE-ky) is casual, "Děkuji vám" is more formal
📋
Please / You're welcome
Prosím.
PRO-seem
"Please" when requesting AND "you're welcome" when responding to thanks — same word, essential
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Goodbye
Nashledanou!
nas-KHLE-da-noh
Goodbye (formal) — "Čau!" (chow) is casual
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Getting Around
Where is the castle?
Kde je hrad?
gdeh ye hrad
Where is the castle? — "hrad" = castle/fortress. The château type is "zámek".
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How much?
Kolik to stojí?
KO-lik to STOY-ee
How much does it cost?
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One ticket
Jeden lístek, prosím.
YEH-den LEES-tek, PRO-seem
One ticket, please.
📋
Restaurants & Pubs
Table for two
Stůl pro dva, prosím.
stool pro dva, PRO-seem
Table for two, please.
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One beer
Jedno pivo, prosím.
YED-no PI-vo, PRO-seem
One beer, please — Czech beer (pivo) is the finest in the world and costs around 40–60 CZK in local pubs
📋
The essential dish
Svíčková na smetaně.
SVEECH-ko-vah na SME-ta-nyeh
Braised beef sirloin with cream sauce and bread dumplings — the Czech national dish. Never refuse it.
📋
Another beer
Ještě jedno pivo, prosím.
YESH-tyeh YED-no PI-vo
Another beer, please — the most useful phrase in Czech
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Bill
Zaplatím, prosím.
ZA-pla-teem, PRO-seem
I'd like to pay, please. — Round up for the tip; 10% is generous. Tipping is appreciated but not expected.
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Toast & Essentials
Cheers!
Na zdraví!
na ZDRA-vee
Cheers! (lit. "to health") — always make eye contact. Never clink and look away — it brings seven years of bad luck according to Czech tradition.
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Toilets
Kde jsou toalety?
gdeh jsou TOA-le-ty
Where are the toilets? (often costs 10–20 CZK in tourist areas)
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Do you speak English?
Mluvíte anglicky?
mloo-VEE-teh ANG-glit-sky
Do you speak English? — in Český Krumlov in summer, almost always yes
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Zkopírováno!