72-hour expedition

The Little ParisBucharest.

A Belle Époque city that survived Ceaușescu's demolition machine — just. The second-largest building in the world, Orthodox cathedrals in every neighbourhood, linden-scented boulevards in June, and a nightlife scene that has been quietly astonishing people for twenty years.

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The Palace of Parliament & the Communist CityThe second-largest building in the world, the boulevard that destroyed a quarter of the old city to build it, and what survived.

Ceaușescu's Bucharest

9 stops
Morning — The Palace
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Palace of Parliament
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📍 Calea 13 Septembrie 1 · Book guided tour · UNESCO tentative list
The second-largest building in the world by floor area — 340,000 square metres, 1,100 rooms, 480 chandeliers, 1,409 ceiling lights, 35 million cubic metres of marble. Conceived by Nicolae Ceaușescu in 1984, named the "House of the People" (Casa Poporului), built by 20,000 workers in three 8-hour shifts around the clock, never completed, still not fully used. To build it, Ceaușescu demolished a quarter of historic Bucharest — churches, synagogues, monasteries, entire neighbourhoods — and displaced 40,000 people. It is simultaneously the most extreme monument to one man's megalomania in modern European history and an undeniably extraordinary building.
2nd largest building world · 340,000 m² · 1,100 rooms · 35M tonnes marble · Never completed
🕘Daily tours 09:00–17:00 · €15 · Book at cdep.ro · 2-hour guided tour · Passport required
🍽Café inside · Unirii Square area for lunch after
🚻Inside the palace
2nd largest building world · 1,100 roomsBook online · PassportNever completed
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Boulevard Unirii — Ceaușescu's Champs-Élysées
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📍 From Palace to Unirii Square · 3.5km · Free
The axial boulevard Ceaușescu built to frame his palace — 3.5km long, 120 metres wide (wider than the Champs-Élysées), lined with identical communist-era apartment blocks and punctuated with fountains and roundabouts. Built 1984–1989, it required the demolition of an entire medieval quarter of Bucharest and the construction of the fountains was never finished. Today it is partly reclaimed by cafés and trees and the fountains run in summer. The specific quality of the boulevard: it is too wide and too long to be comfortable on foot, which is precisely the point — it was designed to be seen from a helicopter or from the palace balcony, not walked.
120m wide · Wider than Champs-Élysées · Entire quarter demolished · Designed for helicopters
🕘Always open · Free · Best on foot or by bike · Fountains run May–Sep
🍽Terrace cafés along the boulevard · Unirii Square area for restaurants
Wider than Champs-Élysées · FreeEntire quarter demolished
Saved Churches of Ilfov — Moved to Save Them
Rotated & moved on rails · Ceaușescu hid them
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📍 Behind apartment blocks · Scattered through Sector 4 & 5
When Ceaușescu's demolition crews swept through Bucharest in the 1980s, a small number of Orthodox churches were deemed too culturally significant to destroy — but they obstructed the new boulevards. The solution: some were moved. Engineers placed churches on rails and rollers and physically relocated them — entire masonry buildings, sometimes rotating them 90 degrees first — to hide them behind the new apartment blocks. At least 13 churches were moved or rotated; they are now concealed behind the communist-era facades, visible only if you know to walk around the back of buildings. The Schitul Maicilor church was moved 245 metres. The Mihai Vodă complex moved 289 metres.
Churches moved on rails · Rotated & hidden · 13+ relocated · Behind apartment blocks
🕘Mihai Vodă Monastery: Str Sapientei 4 · Schitul Maicilor: behind Unirii blocks · Both free · Always open exterior
Churches moved on rails · Hidden behind blocks13+ relocated
Afternoon — Old Town & Belle Époque
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Lipscani — The Old Town
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📍 Between Calea Victoriei & Brătianu Blvd · Pedestrian streets
The medieval commercial core of Bucharest — a dense grid of pedestrianised streets named for the traders who worked them (Lipscani = merchants from Leipzig, Blănari = furriers, Covaci = blacksmiths, Zarafi = money changers). The area survived Ceaușescu's demolitions mostly intact and is now the densest concentration of bars, restaurants and nightlife in Romania. The Hanul lui Manuc (1808, a caravanserai still operating as a hotel and restaurant), the ruins of Vlad the Impaler's 15th-century court (Curtea Veche, free), and the old Princely Church are all here within a few hundred metres.
Medieval street names · Vlad the Impaler's court ruins · Hanul Manuc 1808 · Free to walk
🕘Always open · Free · Curtea Veche: daily 10:00–18:00 · Nightlife from 22:00
🍽Caru cu Bere (1879 beer hall, most beautiful interior in Bucharest) · Lacrimi si Sfinți · Vatra
🚻Bars and restaurants throughout
Vlad the Impaler's court · FreeHanul Manuc 1808Nightlife from 22:00
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Caru cu Bere — The Most Beautiful Room in Bucharest
1879 · Neo-Gothic · Still a restaurant
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📍 Strada Stavropoleos 5 · Lipscani · Since 1879
A Gothic Revival beer hall opened in 1879 — the finest surviving Victorian-era restaurant interior in Eastern Europe. The ground floor has stained-glass windows depicting Romanian history, ornate carved wooden gallery balustrades, painted Neo-Gothic vaulting, and tiled floors in geometric patterns. The beer hall was a favourite of the Bucharest intelligentsia and bourgeoisie in the Belle Époque period. It was nationalised in 1950, survived communism, was restored and returned to private operation. The food is Romanian (sarmale, mici, ciorbă) and adequate; the interior is extraordinary. Come for the room, stay for the atmosphere.
1879 · Stained glass · Gothic vaulting · Most beautiful interior in Bucharest · Still operating
🕘Daily 08:00–midnight · Can enter for just a drink · Worth it for the room alone
🍽Romanian food (adequate) · Local beer · Enter for coffee or beer at minimum
Most beautiful room · 1879 · Come for the interiorGothic vaulting
Evening — Calea Victoriei
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Calea Victoriei at Dusk
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🚶 From the Palace to Piața Victoriei · The Belle Époque spine
The main boulevard of old Bucharest — the "Little Paris" spine that runs north–south through the Belle Époque city, lined with the 19th-century palaces, mansions and hotels that gave Bucharest its French nickname. The Cantacuzino Palace (1901, now the George Enescu Museum), the CEC Bank Palace (1900, the most ornate building in Bucharest), the Cercul Militar (1912), and the National History Museum are all on this one street. In June, the linden trees (tei) that line the boulevard flower and the entire city smells of linden blossom for two weeks — one of the most specifically Bucharest experiences available.
Belle Époque palaces · CEC Palace 1900 · George Enescu Museum · June linden blossom
🕘Always open · Free to walk · Best at dusk · June: linden blossom season (smell the city)
🍽Ice cream at Costas (Calea Victoriei institution) · Dinner at Lacrimi si Sfinți nearby
Belle Époque spine · FreeJune linden blossomLittle Paris
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Herăstrău Park, the Village Museum & FloreascaThe largest park in Bucharest, the finest open-air architecture museum in Europe, and the neighbourhood where Bucharest has its best restaurants.

Parks, Villages & Floreasca

9 stops
Morning — Village Museum
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Dimitrie Gusti National Village Museum
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📍 Herăstrău Park · Șoseaua Kiseleff 28–30 · Free on certain days
The finest open-air village museum in Europe — 272 authentic buildings from across Romania, dismantled in their original villages and reassembled on the shore of Herăstrău Lake from 1936 onward. Wooden churches, farmsteads, windmills, oil presses, water mills, Transylvanian farmhouses, Maramureș gateways, Dobruja fishing huts — the complete architectural diversity of Romanian village life, arranged by region across a 15-hectare park. The buildings are furnished with original objects. On weekends, craftspeople demonstrate traditional skills in some of the workshops. It is the most direct encounter with traditional Romanian culture available in the city.
272 authentic buildings · From across Romania · Since 1936 · Finest open-air museum Europe
🕘Tue–Sun 09:00–19:00 (summer) · Mon closed · €8 · Allow 2–3 hours · Free first Sunday of month
🍽Museum café · Herăstrău park restaurants along the lake after
🚻Inside the museum
272 buildings from all Romania · 1936Finest open-air museum Europe
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Herăstrău Park — The Bucharest Lungs
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📍 North Bucharest · 250 hectares · Lake Herăstrău
The largest and most popular park in Bucharest — 250 hectares of woodland, gardens and the 74-hectare Lake Herăstrău (officially now King Mihai I Lake), with boat rentals, lakeside restaurants, cycling paths and the relaxed summer atmosphere of a city that takes its parks seriously. The park was designed in the 1930s when Bucharest was modernising rapidly; the linden and horse-chestnut trees planted then are now mature. The specific pleasure of Herăstrău in early June: the linden blossom floating on the water, the smell, the light at 21:00 on a long Nordic-latitude evening, and the Romanian families who occupy every bench, boat and grassy slope.
250 hectares · 74ha lake · Boat hire · Cycling · Linden blossom June · Free
🕘Always open · Free · Boat hire from 10:00 · Bikes rentable at park entrances
🍽Barca (lakeside, good) · Club A (historic student venue) · Ice cream stalls throughout
250ha · Free · Linden blossom JuneBoat hire on the lake
Afternoon — The Peasant Museum & Floreasca
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Romanian Peasant Museum (Muzeul Țăranului Român)
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📍 Șoseaua Kiseleff 3 · Opposite the Village Museum
Named European Museum of the Year in 1996 — a museum of Romanian rural culture housed in a 1930s neo-Romanian building, presenting peasant objects, textiles, icons, furniture and ritual artefacts with unusual honesty about both the beauty and the harshness of peasant life. The communist-era section in the basement documents the persecution of the Romanian peasantry by the collectivisation programme of the 1950s–60s, displayed without euphemism. The museum shop has the finest collection of Romanian folk textiles, ceramics and wooden objects for sale in Bucharest — authentic quality, fair prices.
European Museum of Year 1996 · Folk textiles · Collectivisation basement · Best museum shop
🕘Tue–Sun 10:00–18:00 · Mon closed · €5 · Museum shop open same hours
🍽Museum café (good, garden) · Floreasca neighbourhood for dinner
🚻Inside
European Museum of Year 1996Best museum shop BucharestCollectivisation basement
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Floreasca & the Belle Époque Villas
Surviving mansions · Quiet streets · Local restaurants
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📍 North Bucharest · Between Floreasca Lake & Herăstrău
The neighbourhood of surviving Belle Époque villas — the bourgeois residential quarter of pre-communist Bucharest that escaped demolition because it was not in the path of Ceaușescu's bulldozers. Streets of French-influenced mansions (1900–1940), walled gardens, lime trees and the specific urban atmosphere of a city that almost lost its past but did not quite. The neighbourhood also has the best independent restaurant cluster in Bucharest — Floreasca is where Bucharest eats seriously without tourist pricing. Lacrimi si Sfinți (one of the finest Romanian restaurants), Shift, and Neverland all operate here.
Surviving Belle Époque villas · 1900–1940 · Local restaurants · No tourist pricing
🕘Always open to walk · Free · Restaurants from 12:00 · Book dinner ahead
🍽Lacrimi si Sfinți (book weeks ahead) · Shift Pub · Neverland (garden) · Berăria Herăstrău
Surviving Belle Époque villasBest restaurants BucharestNo tourist pricing
Evening — Bucharest Nightlife
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Bucharest After Dark — Honest Guide
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🌙 Lipscani · Floreasca · Control · From 22:00
Bucharest's nightlife has been called the best value in Europe for twenty years — low prices, long hours, a genuinely mixed crowd of locals and visitors, and the specific energy of a city that has been making up for lost decades. Control (Ana Ipătescu 2, the seminal Bucharest club, techno and indie rock since 2006), Expirat (Halelor 16, three floors, terrace, local DJs), Grădina Urbană (rooftop garden bar), and the terrace bars of Floreasca lake run from 22:00 to dawn without the velvet rope pretension of Western European equivalents. Beer is €2–3. The city does not start going out until 23:00.
Best value nightlife Europe · Beer €2–3 · City starts at 23:00 · Control since 2006
🕘Bars from 20:00 · Clubs from 23:00 · Runs to dawn · No strict dress code · Cash preferred
🍽Control · Expirat · Grădina Urbană (rooftop) · Floreasca lake terrace bars
Beer €2–3 · Best value EuropeStarts at 23:00Control since 2006
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Orthodox Bucharest, the Art Museum & VăcăreștiThe new Patriarchal Cathedral, the national art collection, and the urban nature reserve that grew inside an abandoned communist reservoir.

Orthodox, Art & Wild Bucharest

9 stops
Morning — Patriarchal Hill & Orthodox Bucharest
Romanian Patriarchal Cathedral & the Hill
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📍 Dealul Mitropoliei · Sector 4 · Free · Always open
The spiritual centre of Romanian Orthodoxy — the Patriarchal Cathedral (1658–1668) and the adjacent Palace of the Patriarchate on the hill above the Dâmbovița river, a quiet enclave of Orthodox ecclesiastical life above the communist city. The cathedral interior has the full programme of Byzantine fresco painting across its walls — saints, prophets, the Last Judgement, the Virgin enthroned — in the specific deep colours of the Romanian painting tradition. The hill itself has views over the Palace of Parliament, the communist city and the older Bucharest roofscape. The atmosphere of the hill — incense, bells, black-robed priests, flickering candles — is the sharpest contrast to the Palace of Parliament visible in the same view.
1658–1668 · Byzantine frescoes · Romanian Orthodox centre · View over Palace of Parliament · Free
🕘Daily 07:00–20:00 · Free · Dress modestly · Head covering for women
🍽Monastery refectory (simple Romanian food) · Unirii Square area after
🚻Cathedral grounds
Romanian Orthodox centre · FreeByzantine frescoes 1658View over Palace
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Coral Temple Synagogue — The Surviving Jewish Bucharest
1857 · Moorish · Still active
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📍 Strada Sfântul Vineri 9 · Near Lipscani
The Coral Temple Synagogue (1857, rebuilt 1866), the main synagogue of Bucharest, in a Moorish-influenced style with a gilded interior and a capacity for 1,000 worshippers. Bucharest had a Jewish community of over 100,000 before WWII — the largest in Romania, the third-largest in Europe. The community was decimated by wartime deportations and emigration to Israel; perhaps 10,000 remain. The Jewish History Museum is adjacent. The Coral Temple is still active — services on Friday evening and Saturday morning. A visit before or after Lipscani adds the layer of Bucharest's Jewish history, largely absent from standard city tours.
1857 Moorish · Gilded interior · Community 100,000 pre-WWII · Still active · Jewish Museum adjacent
🕘Guided visits available · Jewish Museum: Mon–Thu 09:00–17:00 · Small entrance fee
Moorish 1857 · Gilded interior100,000 pre-WWII community
Afternoon — National Art Museum & Văcărești
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National Museum of Art of Romania
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📍 Calea Victoriei 49–53 · The Royal Palace · Free Tue
Housed in the former Royal Palace on Calea Victoriei — the residence of Romanian kings until 1947 — the national art museum has two main collections: the National Gallery (Romanian art from medieval to 20th century, including the icon tradition, Baroque, and the modern school of Nicolae Grigorescu and Stefan Luchian) and the European Gallery (El Greco, Rembrandt, Rubens, Cranach, Monet, Renoir). The medieval icons in the Gallery of Romanian Medieval Art are the most significant collection of its type in the country — gold-ground Byzantine icons from Moldavian and Wallachian monasteries, often in their original carved wooden frames.
Royal Palace · Romanian icons · Grigorescu · El Greco · Rembrandt · Monet · Free Tue
🕘Wed–Sun 11:00–19:00 · Tue free 10:00–18:00 · Mon closed · €10 · Allow 2 hours
🍽Museum café · Calea Victoriei terrace cafés after
🚻Inside
Romanian icons · Rembrandt · Monet · Free TueRoyal PalaceByzantine icon tradition
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Văcărești Nature Park — The Accidental Delta
Abandoned reservoir · Urban nature reserve · 185 bird species
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📍 Sector 4 · 20 min from centre · Free
An abandoned communist-era reservoir that became an accidental nature reserve — Ceaușescu ordered a large reservoir built in the southern city in the 1980s; it was never filled; the concrete basin was left to naturalise; wetland vegetation colonised it; and by the 2010s it had become a 183-hectare urban delta with 185 bird species (cormorants, herons, egrets, kingfishers, night herons), wild foxes, and the specific ecology of a wetland that grew without any human intention inside the boundaries of a capital city. Declared a national park in 2016. There is a viewing platform and walking paths. Nothing like it exists in any other European capital.
185 bird species · Accidental nature reserve · Communist reservoir · 183 hectares · Free
🕘Always open · Free · Viewing platform · Best at dawn for birds · Bring binoculars
🍽Nothing on site · Bring food and water · Return to Unirii for dinner
Accidental delta · 185 bird species · FreeNothing like it in Europe
Departure
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Henri Coandă Airport (OTP)
🚌 Express bus 783 · 40 min · Or taxi ~€15–20
Bucharest Henri Coandă International Airport (OTP) is 16km north of the city centre. There is no direct rail or metro connection — the best public option is express bus 783 from Piața Unirii or Piața Victoriei (40 minutes, runs 24 hours, ~€3). Taxi from city centre: €15–20 by metered taxi (use Bolt or Free Now app to avoid overcharging).
🚌Bus 783: Piața Unirii or Piața Victoriei → Airport · 40 min · ~€3 · 24 hours · Every 30–40 min
🚕Taxi: use Bolt or Free Now app · €15–20 · Never take unlicensed taxis outside the terminal
Allow 2.5 hours in summer · Terminal 1 for domestic · Terminal 2 for most international
⚠️Do not take taxis from inside the arrivals hall without booking via app — tourist overcharging is common
Bus 783 · 40 min · €3Use Bolt app for taxis
Romanian Phrase Bath

Romanian (Română) is a Romance language — the easternmost Latin-descended language in Europe, closer to Italian and Latin than to French or Spanish. If you speak any Romance language, you will recognise about 60% of the vocabulary. The alphabet is Latin with five additional characters: ă (like the 'u' in 'but'), â/î (a central vowel, no English equivalent), ș (sh), ț (ts). Most young Bucharestians speak good English. Romanian effort is met with genuine warmth. Noroc!

Greetings
Good day
Bună ziua!
BOO-nah ZEE-wa
Good day — formal and correct at all times. "Bună!" alone is casual and very common in Bucharest.
📋
Good morning
Bună dimineața!
BOO-nah dee-mee-NEAH-tsa
Good morning — until about noon. The -ața ending is the specific morning form. Note: ț = "ts".
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Thank you
Mulțumesc!
mool-tsoo-MESK
Thank you — the ț sounds like "ts". "Mulțumesc frumos" (thank you nicely) is warmer and always appreciated.
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You're welcome
Cu plăcere.
koo plah-CHEH-reh
You're welcome (lit. with pleasure) — the standard polite response to mulțumesc.
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Getting Around
Where is the Palace?
Unde este Palatul Parlamentului?
OON-deh YES-teh pa-LAH-tool par-la-MEN-too-loo
Where is the Palace of Parliament? — replace with any destination. "Unde este...?" = where is...?
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How much to the airport?
Cât costă până la aeroport?
KUT KOS-tah PUH-nah la ah-eh-ro-PORT
How much to the airport? — always agree the price before getting in an unlicensed taxi. Better: use the Bolt app.
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One ticket please
Un bilet, vă rog.
oon bee-LET vuh ROG
One ticket please — "vă rog" (I beg of you) is the standard polite please in Romanian.
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Food & Restaurants
What do you recommend?
Ce recomandați?
cheh reh-ko-man-DAHTS
What do you recommend? — opens the conversation to dishes not on the tourist menu. Romanians are proud of their food.
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The definitive Romanian soup
O ciorbă de burtă, vă rog.
o CHOR-bah deh BOOR-tah
A tripe soup please — ciorbă de burtă (sour tripe soup) is the most Romanian dish. Ordering it signals genuine interest. Also try ciorbă de văcuță (beef sour soup).
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The bill
Nota de plată, vă rog.
NO-tah deh PLAH-tah vuh ROG
The bill please — it will not arrive uninvited. Tipping 10% is standard and appreciated.
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That was delicious
A fost foarte bun!
a FOST FWAHR-teh boon
That was very good! — simple, direct, and always produces a warm response.
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Toasts & Romanian Character
Cheers!
Noroc!
no-ROK
Cheers! (lit. good luck) — the universal Romanian toast. Always eye contact. "Sănătate!" (health!) is also used.
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I love Bucharest
Îmi place mult Bucureștiul!
UM-mee PLAH-cheh moolt boo-koo-RESH-tyool
I like Bucharest very much! — Romanians are used to their city being underestimated. This opens conversations.
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Toilet
Unde este toaleta?
OON-deh YES-teh twa-LEH-tah
Where is the toilet? — often a small charge (2–5 lei) in public facilities. Keep small change.
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Copiat!