5-day road trip

Der SchwarzwaldBaden-Baden to the Bodensee.

A mountain forest that gave the world the cuckoo clock, the Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte, and Dostoevsky's gambling debts. Thermal springs that the Romans found first. The highest waterfall in Germany. A lake shared between three countries. Drive south on the ridge road the French Army built in 1918. Stop at every farm distillery. Buy a clock from the person who made it.

5
Days
~280
km route
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Baden-Württ.
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Phrases
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Arrival — Baden-Baden
Frankfurt · ICE 1h
Baden-Baden Bahnhof
Or fly to Basel EuroAirport · 45 min drive
Do not hire a car on arrival day — Baden-Baden is compact and walkable. The baths, the casino and the Lichtentaler Allee are all on foot. Collect the hire car tomorrow morning for the Schwarzwaldhochstraße south.

Baden-Baden

7 stops
Morning — The Roman Baths
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Friedrichsbad — The 17-Stage Roman-Irish Bath
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📍 Römerplatz 1 · Baden-Baden · Opened 1877 · No swimwear
The most architecturally extraordinary bathing institution in Germany — a Neo-Renaissance palace built in 1877 over the original Roman thermal springs, offering a programme of 17 stages moving through progressively hotter rooms, steam baths, brush massage, soap and cream treatments, hot and cold pools, and a final rest stage that takes approximately 3.5 hours to complete. No swimwear is permitted in the mixed sections (there are separate hours on certain days). Mark Twain bathed here and wrote that at the Friedrichsbad "you lose track of time in ten minutes and of the world in twenty." The building's painted cupola and thermal pools are among the finest 19th-century spa interiors in Europe.
17 stages · 3.5 hours · No swimwear · Mark Twain bathed here · Neo-Renaissance cupola
🕘Daily 09:00–22:00 (last entry 19:30) · €35 · Mixed bathing most days · Book online recommended
🍽Nothing inside · Café König (Lichtentaler Allee, excellent pastries) after
🚻Full facilities inside
17 stages · 3.5 hours · No swimwear · Mark Twain bathed here€35 · Book ahead
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Roman Ruins Beneath Friedrichsbad
Roman baths 1st century · In the basement · Often missed
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📍 Römerplatz · Under and adjacent to Friedrichsbad · €3
The Roman military thermal baths (Römische Badruinen) beneath and adjacent to the Friedrichsbad — the legionary garrison of the Rhine frontier discovered the thermal springs in the 1st century AD and built a substantial bathing complex over them. The ruins (hypocaust heating systems, tile patterns, bath basins) are visible in an underground museum beneath the modern building. The Romans called the settlement Aquae Aureliae; the thermal springs have been in continuous use for approximately 2,000 years, making Baden-Baden one of the longest-used spa towns in Europe.
Roman baths 1st century AD · Hypocaust heating visible · 2,000 years continuous use · €3
🕘Daily 11:00–18:00 · €3 · Combined ticket with Friedrichsbad available · Under Römerplatz
Roman baths 1st c · Hypocaust visible · 2,000 years continuous use · €3
Afternoon — The Casino & the Allee
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Casino Baden-Baden — Where Dostoevsky Lost Everything
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📍 Kaiserallee 1 · Kurhaus · The most beautiful casino in the world
The Casino Baden-Baden — housed in the Kurhaus (1824), its interior modelled on the Palace of Versailles — is frequently cited as the most beautiful casino in the world. Marlene Dietrich called it "the most beautiful casino in the world" and Dietrich's endorsement is on the wall. Fyodor Dostoevsky came to Baden-Baden in 1867 and lost everything at the roulette table over several visits — his gambling compulsion here became the subject of his novella The Gambler, which he dictated to his stenographer Anna Grigorievna Snitkina in 26 days to meet a deadline. He subsequently married her. The minimum bet at the roulette tables today is €5; jacket required in the evening.
Dostoevsky lost everything here · Most beautiful casino world · Versailles interior · Marlene Dietrich
🕘Tours: daily 09:30–11:45 · €7 · Evening gaming from 14:00 · Jacket required evenings · ID required
🍽Kurhaus restaurant (grand setting) · Münchner Löwenbräu (beer garden, less grand, more fun)
Dostoevsky lost here · Most beautiful casino · Versailles interiorTours €7 · Jacket evenings
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Lichtentaler Allee — Brahms Walked Here Daily
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📍 Along the Oos river · 2.3km · Free · Always open
The finest tree-lined promenade in Germany — 2.3km of park along the river Oos, planted with plane trees, oaks, redwoods and rare specimen trees from across Europe, connecting the Kurhaus to the Lichtentaler Abbey. Johannes Brahms spent significant periods of his career in Baden-Baden (1865–1874) and walked the Allee daily, completing the German Requiem and the Piano Quintet here. Turgenev, Clara Schumann and Napoleon III were among the regular promenaders. The Allee is free, always open, and at its finest in October when the plane trees turn gold. The Kunsthalle Baden-Baden at the Allee end shows contemporary exhibitions.
Brahms walked daily 1865–1874 · 2.3km · Plane trees golden in Oct · Free · Turgenev · Clara Schumann
🕘Always open · Free · Best Oct (golden leaves) or early morning any season
🍽Café König (Lichtentaler Allee 3, institution since 1904, best pastries in Baden-Baden)
Brahms walked here daily · 2.3km · Golden Oct · Free
Evening
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Overnight: Baden-Baden
🛏 Stay 1 night · Collect hire car tomorrow
🍽Brenners Park-Restaurant (Michelin, grand hotel, special occasion) · Rizzi (Italian, Augustaplatz, more casual) · Weinstube im Badner Hof (local wine bar)
🏨Brenners Park-Hotel (the grandest hotel in Baden-Baden, historic) · Hotel Belle Époque (Victorian villa, boutique) · Many Pension options along the Oos valley
💡Collect the hire car at Baden-Baden Bahnhof tomorrow morning. The Schwarzwaldhochstraße (B500) begins just south of town.
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Schwarzwaldhochstraße — The High Road Through the Forest
Baden-Baden
B500 Hochstraße
Hornisgrinde
Mummelsee
Freudenstadt · 70 km
Germany's first designated scenic road (1927) runs along the Black Forest ridge from Baden-Baden to Freudenstadt — through pine forest, over open heathland summits, past glacial lakes. Drive slowly. Stop at every viewpoint. The Hornisgrinde is the highest point of the northern Black Forest; the view west over the Rhine plain to the Vosges is one of the finest in Germany.

The High Road

6 stops
Morning — The Ridge
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Schwarzwaldhochstraße B500 — Germany's First Scenic Road
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🚗 Baden-Baden → Freudenstadt · 70km · Allow 3–4 hours with stops
The Schwarzwaldhochstraße (Black Forest High Road, B500) was designated Germany's first Ferienstraße (holiday road) in 1927 — a scenic route running along the watershed ridge of the northern Black Forest between 700 and 1,000 metres, through pine and spruce forest, over open Hochmoor (raised bog) heathland, and past a series of viewpoints overlooking the Rhine plain west toward Alsace and the Vosges. The road was built for tourism, not for military purposes — a purely civilian infrastructure investment in the Weimar period that anticipated the leisure driving culture of the post-war era. In October the heathland turns amber and gold.
Germany's first scenic road 1927 · Ridge at 700–1,000m · Rhine plain views · Heathland amber Oct
🕘Always open · Free · Drive B500 south from Baden-Baden · Allow 3–4 hours with stops · Fog in spring
🍽Berghotel Mummelsee (on the lake, adequate) · Gasthäuser along the B500 · Or picnic at viewpoints
Germany's first scenic road · 1927 · Ridge views Rhine plain · Amber Oct
Hornisgrinde — Highest Point of the Northern Black Forest
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📍 1,163m · Off B500 · 20-min walk to summit · Best view
The highest summit in the northern Black Forest at 1,163 metres — a broad, open moorland plateau with a radar installation (former French military, now meteorological) and an unmarked walking trail to the summit trig point. The view west on a clear day: the Rhine plain spread below, the silver line of the Rhine itself, Strasbourg Cathedral visible on good days, and the Vosges mountains on the French side as a blue wall. The plateau is covered in Hochmoor (raised bog) vegetation — cotton grass, cranberry, sundew — with characteristic twisted dwarf pines surviving the winter winds.
1,163m · Highest northern Black Forest · Rhine plain view · Vosges visible · Hochmoor vegetation
🕘Always open · Free · 20-min walk from B500 car park · Boots recommended · Cold and windy year-round
Highest northern Black Forest · Rhine + Vosges view · Free
Midday — Mummelsee
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Mummelsee — The Black Forest's Haunted Lake
Glacial cirque lake · Water sprite legends · Dark peat water
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📍 On the B500 · Below Hornisgrinde · Small glacial lake
A small glacial cirque lake below the Hornisgrinde — dark peat-brown water, surrounded by dense spruce forest, at 1,036 metres altitude. The name derives from "Mummel" — the Black Forest water sprite of German folklore, a shape-shifting creature said to inhabit the deep lakes of the forest and drag swimmers to the bottom. The lake is cold (surface temperature rarely above 14°C in summer), dark, and has a specific atmosphere of compressed Gothic forestry that inspired Mörike's poem "Der Feuerreiter" and Eduard Mörike's other Black Forest poems. Eichendorff wrote of it. The tourist infrastructure around it (hotel, souvenir shop) is mediocre; the lake itself is genuinely strange.
Glacial cirque lake · Dark peat water · Water sprite legends · Mörike · Eichendorff · Always free
🕘Always · Free · Walk the 1km path around the lake · 20 min · Ignore the hotel · Focus on the forest
Glacial lake · Dark peat water · Water sprite legends · Free
Afternoon — Freudenstadt
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Freudenstadt — The Largest Market Square in Germany
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📍 End of B500 · Rebuilt 1945–1954 · Oddly magnificent
Freudenstadt was founded in 1599 by Duke Friedrich I of Württemberg on a Renaissance grid plan — a purpose-built planned town with the Marktplatz (market square) at its centre. The town was almost entirely destroyed in April 1945 by French forces advancing into the Black Forest (a controversial act of retaliation that killed civilians) and rebuilt between 1945 and 1954 on the original plan. The result: a strange beauty — a Renaissance street grid rebuilt in 1950s German modernism, with the Marktplatz remaining the largest in Germany at 216 × 216 metres. The L-shaped church (the town church, designed so that men and women could pray separately without seeing each other) survived and is one of the most curious ecclesiastical buildings in Germany.
Largest market square Germany · L-shaped church · Destroyed 1945 · Rebuilt on Renaissance plan
🕘Always open · Free · Market: Wed + Sat · L-shaped church: free · Tourist office on Marktplatz
🍽Hotel Warteck (Marktplatz, reliable Swabian-Black Forest cooking) · Zum Goldenen Stern (traditional)
Largest market square Germany · L-shaped church · Rebuilt 1950s on 1599 plan
Evening
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Overnight: Freudenstadt or Alpirsbach
🛏 Central position for tomorrow's waterfall drive
💡Freudenstadt is the practical choice — good facilities, central. Alpirsbach (15 min south) has a Romanesque monastery brewery and is quieter. Triberg is 45 min south for an early start tomorrow.
🏨Freudenstadt: Palmenwald Schwarzwaldhotel (spa, forest setting) · Alpirsbach: Kloster-Hotel (in the monastery)
🍽Alpirsbach Klosterbrauerei (monastery brewery, excellent Alpirsbacher Klosterbräu, dark beer, hall seating)
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Triberg — Waterfalls, Cuckoo Clocks & Black Forest Cake
Freudenstadt
Triberg · 45 min
Furtwangen · 20 min
Titisee · 30 min
The central Black Forest is the heartland of the cuckoo clock tradition and the source of the highest waterfalls in Germany. Triberg is the tourist centre of this part of the forest — busy, but authentically so. The Deutsches Uhrenmuseum in Furtwangen is the reason to understand the clock before you buy one.

Triberg & the Clocks

7 stops
Morning — The Waterfalls
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Triberg Waterfalls — The Highest in Germany
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📍 Triberg im Schwarzwald · 163m total drop · 7 cascades
The highest waterfalls in Germany — the Gutach river drops 163 metres in seven cascades through dense spruce forest above the town of Triberg. The falls are most impressive in spring (April–May) when snowmelt swells the volume, and in winter when they partially freeze and form ice curtains over the rock faces. A paved path climbs through the forest alongside the cascades from the lower entrance to the highest viewpoint — approximately 1.5km and 200m of ascent. The entry fee is charged at a turnstile at the bottom; the forest path and the sound of water are genuinely spectacular even in summer when the flow reduces.
163m drop · 7 cascades · Highest in Germany · Best April–May or winter ice · 1.5km path
🕘Daily 09:00–18:00 (summer until 20:00) · €5 · Illuminated evenings in winter · Boots recommended
🍽Café Schäfer (Triberg, since 1926, the benchmark Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte) just below the falls
🚻At lower entrance
Highest waterfalls Germany · 163m · Best spring or winter ice€5 · 1.5km path
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Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte — The Real Thing
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🎂 Café Schäfer · Triberg · The benchmark since 1926
The Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte (Black Forest gateau) in its authentic form is not the fluorescent cherry-cream confection found in supermarkets. The genuine article requires: chocolate sponge layers soaked in Kirschwasser (cherry schnapps distilled from Black Forest sour cherries — legally required by the Baden-Württemberg food regulations for a cake bearing the Schwarzwälder name), whipped cream, sour cherries, and chocolate shavings. The Kirschwasser content (minimum 40% ABV) is specified in German food law — a Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte without sufficient Kirschwasser cannot legally be labelled as one. Café Schäfer in Triberg has made the definitive version since 1926.
Kirschwasser legally required · 40% ABV minimum · German food law · Café Schäfer since 1926
🕘Café Schäfer: daily 09:00–18:00 · Hauptstraße 33, Triberg · Sit in, not takeaway
Kirschwasser legally required · Café Schäfer 1926 · The benchmark
Afternoon — Cuckoo Clocks & Furtwangen
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Deutsches Uhrenmuseum, Furtwangen — The Clock Before You Buy It
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📍 Robert-Gerwig-Platz 1 · Furtwangen · The original cuckoo clock collection
The German Clock Museum in Furtwangen holds the world's largest collection of Black Forest clocks — from the earliest wooden-wheeled movements of the 18th century through the cuckoo clock tradition (invented in the Black Forest around 1730, though the exact inventor is disputed) to modern precision instruments. Understanding the clock's evolution here — from peasant woodcarvers making simple shelf clocks in winter to the industrialised production of the 19th century — makes buying a handmade clock from a workshop afterwards a completely different act. A genuine handmade Black Forest cuckoo clock costs €150–800; the €20 version is made in China.
World's largest Black Forest clock collection · Cuckoo clock origin 1730 · Buy after this · €6
🕘Daily Apr–Oct 09:00–18:00 · Nov–Mar 10:00–17:00 · €6 · Allow 1.5 hours
🍽Museum café · Buy a clock at Drubba or Bauer in Triberg after (handmade, genuine, €150+)
World's largest clock collection · Cuckoo 1730 · €6 · Buy genuine after · €150–800
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Kirschwasser — The Protected Black Forest Spirit
Cherry schnapps · Farm distillery · Protected designation
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🍒 Farm distilleries throughout · Buy at source · Never add ice
Kirschwasser (cherry water) is a clear fruit schnapps distilled from whole Black Forest sour cherries (Prunus cerasus) — including the stones, which contain benzaldehyde and give the spirit its characteristic bitter almond note. The Black Forest Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) requires that Schwarzwälder Kirschwasser be produced from cherries grown in the Black Forest region, minimum 40% ABV. Farm distilleries (Brennereien) operate throughout the central and southern Black Forest; buying Kirschwasser directly at the farm costs €15–30 per bottle and is dramatically better than the commercial supermarket product.
Whole cherries incl. stones · Bitter almond note · PGI protected · Farm distillery €15–30 · Never add ice
🕘Farm distilleries: follow Brennerei signs on B33 and B500 · Usually open mornings · Ring the bell
Cherry stones give almond note · PGI protected · Buy at farm · €15–30
Evening — Titisee
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Overnight: Titisee-Neustadt
🛏 On the glacial lake · 30 min from Triberg
💡Titisee is a glacial lake formed by the Feldberg glacier — the most popular resort lake in the Black Forest. The tourist centre (Titisee village) is busy and commercial; stay at Neustadt (the larger town 3km east) or at a farmhouse on the lake for a different experience.
🏨Seehotel Wiesler (lakefront, good) · Parkhotel Adler (Neustadt, traditional Black Forest hotel) · Farm B&Bs on the southern shore
🍽Parkhotel Adler restaurant (Neustadt, best kitchen in the area) · Auerhahn (Titisee, lakeside, local fish)
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Feldberg, Freiburg & the Wild Gorge
Titisee
Feldberg summit · 20 min
Freiburg · 30 min
Wutachschlucht · 45 min
The highest summit outside the Alps, the most beautiful small city in the Black Forest, and the wildest gorge in Germany — the Wutachschlucht is the Black Forest's best-kept secret and the correct way to end a day before the lake tomorrow.

Feldberg, Freiburg & the Gorge

7 stops
Morning — Feldberg
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Feldberg — The Highest Summit Outside the Alps
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📍 1,493m · 30 min from Titisee · Cable car or 45-min walk
The Feldberg at 1,493 metres is the highest peak in the Black Forest and the highest summit in Germany outside the Alps and the Zugspitze massif — the highest point accessible without technical climbing between the Alps and Scandinavia in Germany's latitude band. On clear days the summit view extends to Mont Blanc and the Bernese Oberland Alps to the south, to the Vosges across the Rhine to the west, and across the Black Forest plateau to the north. A herd of red deer (Rothirsch) grazes the upper slopes and is visible most mornings before 09:00. The summit is reached by cable car (Feldbergbahn) or a 45-minute walking trail.
1,493m · Highest outside Alps in Germany · Mont Blanc visible · Red deer herd · Cable car or walk
🕘Cable car: daily 09:00–17:00 · €15 return · Walk: 45 min from Feldberg village · Free · Deer before 09:00
🍽Haus Feldberg (summit café, basic, correct) · Better: descend and eat in Freiburg
1,493m · Highest outside Alps · Mont Blanc visible · Red deerCable car €15 or walk free
Afternoon — Freiburg im Breisgau
Freiburg Münster — The Only Completed Medieval Gothic Tower in Germany
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📍 Münsterplatz · Freiburg · Free · Market below every weekday
The Freiburg Münster (Minster) is the finest medieval church in the Black Forest region and one of the most important Gothic cathedrals in Germany — notable above all for its tower (116m), the only medieval Gothic tower in Germany to have been completed in the Middle Ages rather than finished in the 19th-century Gothic Revival. The art historian Jakob Burckhardt called it "the most beautiful tower on earth." A daily market operates on the Münsterplatz surrounding the cathedral — fresh produce, regional Badisch food, flowers. The tower can be climbed for the best view of Freiburg and, on clear days, the Black Forest and Vosges.
Only completed medieval Gothic tower Germany · Burckhardt: most beautiful tower · Daily market below
🕘Cathedral: daily 10:00–17:00 · Free · Tower: €5 · Daily market: Mon–Sat 07:30–13:30
🍽Markthalle (below the market, covered food court, excellent for lunch) · Wolfshöhle (Michelin, Konviktstraße)
🚻Cathedral and Münsterplatz
Only completed medieval Gothic tower Germany · Daily market belowBurckhardt: most beautiful tower · Free
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Freiburg's Bächle — Step in One, Marry a Local
13th century · Water channels · Folklore
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📍 Throughout the old town · Always · Free · Step carefully
The Bächle (little streams) of Freiburg are a network of narrow open water channels running through the pedestrian streets of the old town — fed by the Dreisam river and dating from the 13th century, when they provided water for fighting fires, watering animals and washing. The channels are approximately 20cm wide and 10cm deep. The Freiburg tradition: accidentally stepping in a Bächle means you will marry a Freiburger (a native of Freiburg). The Bächle run wherever the streets are level; in summer children wade in them; in winter they carry the snowmelt. They are among the most pleasant urban water features in Germany and are unique to Freiburg.
13th century · Network through old town · Step in = marry a Freiburger · Always free · Unique to Freiburg
🕘Always · Free · Throughout pedestrian streets · Best in summer when children play
13th century channels · Step in = marry a Freiburger · Unique to Freiburg
Late Afternoon — Wutachschlucht
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Wutachschlucht — The Wildest Gorge in Germany
Nature reserve 1939 · Unmanaged · The Black Forest secret
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📍 East of Freiburg · 45 min · Nature reserve · The gorge path
The Wutachschlucht is a 30km gorge carved by the Wutach river through Jurassic limestone — declared a nature reserve in 1939 (one of the first in Germany) and left entirely unmanaged since, with the forest, the river and the fauna developing without human intervention. The result is the most genuinely wild landscape in the Black Forest: ancient forest of extraordinary age and complexity, the river cutting through limestone caves and over waterfalls in a gorge too narrow and steep for human use. The footpath through the gorge (requiring creek crossings and scrambling in places) is the most dramatic walk in the southern Black Forest. Allow 4–5 hours for the full gorge walk.
Nature reserve since 1939 · Unmanaged · Wildest gorge Germany · Creek crossings · 4–5 hrs full walk
🕘Always open · Free · Start at Schattenmühle or Wutachmühle · Boots essential · Wet feet likely
🍽Schattenmühle (trailhead inn, good Badisch food) · Or drive to Bonndorf for dinner
Nature reserve 1939 · Unmanaged · Wildest gorge Germany · Free
Evening
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Overnight: Stühlingen or Bonndorf
🛏 Southern Black Forest · Close to Bodensee tomorrow
💡The southern Black Forest has fewer tourist hotels but excellent farm B&Bs (Bauernhöfe) offering rooms directly. These are the most authentic overnight experiences on the route — breakfast with homemade jam, local Kirschwasser on arrival, and the specific silence of a working farm at night.
🏨Bauernhof B&Bs: book via Schwarzwald Tourismus (schwarzwald-tourismus.info) · Bonndorf: Hotel Schwarzwald
🍽Schattenmühle at the gorge trailhead (book ahead, worth it) · Or farm dinner if staying on a Bauernhof
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Bodensee — The Lake That Three Countries Share
Southern Black Forest
Konstanz · 45 min
Meersburg
Lindau or Basel · departure
The final day descends from the Black Forest to the Bodensee (Lake Constance) — the largest lake in the German-speaking world, shared between Germany, Austria and Switzerland. The lake's specific quality: it is large enough to feel like a sea (you cannot see the far shore on most days) and warm enough to swim in summer.

Bodensee — Lake Constance

6 stops
Morning — Konstanz & the Lakefront
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Konstanz — Saved by Its Own Lights
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📍 Lake Constance · On the Swiss border · Survived WWII intact
The largest city on the German shore of Lake Constance — with a medieval old town intact because of a specific act of civic ingenuity in WWII. Konstanz sits on the Swiss border; as Allied bombing intensified in 1944–1945, the city council left all the city lights on at night, making Konstanz indistinguishable from the Swiss cities across the border. Allied bombers, forbidden from targeting neutral Switzerland, left Konstanz unharmed. The medieval town centre (the Council of Constance held the most important Church council of the 15th century here, burning the Czech reformer Jan Hus at the stake in 1415) is consequently intact and walkable.
Saved by keeping lights on 1944 · Council of Constance 1414–1418 · Jan Hus burned here · Medieval intact
🕘Always open · Free · Old town: 30-min walk · Minster free · Tourist office: Bahnhofplatz
🍽Constanzer Wirtshaus (traditional, Marktstätte) · Fish restaurants on the Hafen · Markthalle for lunch
Saved by keeping lights on · Jan Hus burned 1415 · Medieval intact · Free
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Meersburg — The Oldest Inhabited Castle in Germany
7th century · Still inhabited · Ferry from Konstanz
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📍 North shore · 15 min ferry from Konstanz
Meersburg is one of the most beautifully situated towns on the Bodensee — stacked on a steep vine-covered hillside above the ferry landing, crowned by the Altes Schloss (Old Castle), the oldest continuously inhabited castle in Germany, with foundations dating to the 7th century and the Merovingian king Dagobert I. The castle is still owned and inhabited by the von Laßberg family and is open to visitors. The town itself has the highest density of half-timbered buildings per capita in Baden-Württemberg and a lakefront promenade lined with linden trees. The ferry from Konstanz (10 minutes) is the correct way to arrive.
Oldest inhabited castle Germany · 7th century · Still owned by same family · Ferry arrival · Vineyard town
🕘Castle: daily Mar–Oct 09:00–18:30 · €10 · Ferry from Konstanz: daily · €5 return · 10 min crossing
🍽Zum Becher (Meersburg, lakefront, fish and local Bodensee wine) · Winzerstube (castle-owned winery restaurant)
Oldest inhabited castle Germany · 7th century · Ferry arrivalStill owned same family · €10
Afternoon — The Bodensee & Departure
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The Bodensee — Three Countries, One Lake
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🚢 Circumnavigation possible · German, Austrian, Swiss shores · Free swimming
The Bodensee (Lake Constance) is the third-largest freshwater lake in Central Europe — 63km long, 14km wide, shared between Germany (Bavaria and Baden-Württemberg), Austria (Vorarlberg) and Switzerland (Thurgau, St. Gallen, Schaffhausen). The water is alpine snowmelt from the Rhine catchment, cold and exceptionally clear. Ferries connect the German, Austrian and Swiss shores; a single day ticket allows circumnavigation. In summer the water temperature reaches 22–24°C and the German shore beaches are crowded. The island of Mainau (the "flower island") and the island of Reichenau (UNESCO World Heritage, Carolingian monasteries) are both reachable by ferry from Konstanz.
3 countries · 63km long · Alpine clear water · Mainau flower island · Reichenau UNESCO monasteries
🕘Ferry network: BSB (Bodensee-Schiffsbetriebe) · Day ticket €25 · Beaches free · Summer 22–24°C swimming
🍽Felchen (whitefish from the lake, the regional speciality) at any Bodensee restaurant · Grilled, not fried
3 countries · Alpine clear · Mainau · Reichenau UNESCOFelchen whitefish · Ferry day ticket €25
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Departure from the Bodensee
🚗 Return the hire car · Choose your route home
✈️EuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg (BSL): 1h 30min from Konstanz · Ryanair, easyJet, Swiss to UK and Europe
✈️Friedrichshafen Airport (FDH): 30 min from Konstanz · Ryanair to London Stansted and Dublin · Small but convenient
🚄Train to Frankfurt: Konstanz → Basel → Frankfurt · ~3h 30min · Book at bahn.de
🚄Train to Zurich: Konstanz → Zurich HB · 1h 20min · Direct · Excellent onward connections
💡Friedrichshafen is the most convenient airport if flying Ryanair. Basel is better for more carriers. Return the hire car at whichever airport you use.
Black Forest German Phrases

In the Black Forest you will hear Standard German (Hochdeutsch) and Alemannic German (Alemannisch) — the dialect family that also covers Alsace, Switzerland and Vorarlberg. The Alemannic dialects of the southern Black Forest are closely related to Swiss German; in villages near the Bodensee, the dialect becomes nearly Swiss. Any attempt at German — even "Grüß Gott!" in the north or "Grüezi!" near the Swiss border — is appreciated. Most service workers in the tourist areas speak good English. Zum Wohl!

Greetings — Regional Variants
Southern German greeting
Grüß Gott!
grüss GOTT
Greet God — the Bavarian and Baden-Württemberg greeting, used in the Black Forest instead of "Hallo." Saying this (rather than the northern German "Moin" or neutral "Hallo") signals you know the regional culture.
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Good morning
Guten Morgen!
GOO-ten MOR-gen
Good morning — standard German, universally understood. In Alemannic dialect: "Guete Morge!" (GWAY-teh MOR-geh). Either is fine; the attempt is what matters.
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Thank you
Danke schön!
DANK-eh SHURN
Thank you very much — "danke" alone is fine; "danke schön" is warmer. In the southern Black Forest near Switzerland: "Merci!" is also understood and used, crossing over from French-influenced Swiss culture.
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At the Farm Distillery
Do you have farm Kirschwasser?
Haben Sie Kirschwasser vom Hof?
HA-ben zee KIRSH-vas-er fom HOF
Do you have Kirschwasser from the farm? — "vom Hof" (from the farm) signals you want the direct producer's schnapps, not the supermarket product. The answer is almost always yes, and a tasting will follow.
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May I taste?
Darf ich probieren?
darf ikh pro-BEER-en
May I taste? — at any distillery, clock workshop, cheese dairy or wine producer. The answer is almost always yes. A small purchase is appropriate after.
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I'll take two bottles
Ich nehme zwei Flaschen.
ikh NAY-meh tsvye FLA-shen
I'll take two bottles — the polite minimum after a free tasting at a farm. Direct prices are 30–50% below retail.
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Food, Beer & the Gaststätte
Black Forest gateau
Ein Stück Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte, bitte.
eyn SHTÜK SHVARTS-vel-der KIRSH-tor-teh BIT-teh
A slice of Black Forest gateau please — at Café Schäfer in Triberg this is the only correct order. Ask if it contains real Kirschwasser; the genuine article must by law.
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A wheat beer please
Ein Hefeweizen, bitte.
eyn HAY-feh-VYE-tsen BIT-teh
A wheat beer please — the correct drink in Baden-Württemberg (Hefeweizen or Weißbier). In the northern Black Forest near Baden-Baden, Pils is more common. Hefeweizen served in a tall 0.5l Weizenglas.
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The bill
Die Rechnung, bitte.
dee RECH-noong BIT-teh
The bill please — in a Gaststätte or Gasthof the bill will not arrive uninvited. In Gastgärten (beer gardens), the server tallies on a beer mat. Tipping 10% is standard.
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Toasts & the Black Forest Character
Cheers!
Zum Wohl!
tsum VOL
To health! — the formal German toast, more common in southern Germany than "Prost!" (which is perfectly correct). With Kirschwasser: sip, never shoot. Eye contact always.
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Toilet
Wo ist die Toilette?
voh ist dee twa-LET-eh
Where is the toilet? — in Gaststätten, always at the back and usually spotless. Small charge sometimes (50 cents). "WC" signs are universal. "Herren" = men, "Damen" = women.
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What a view!
Schöne Aussicht!
SHUR-neh OWS-sikht
What a beautiful view! — useful at the Hornisgrinde, Feldberg summit and Bodensee. Black Forest people take quiet pride in their landscape and this phrase opens conversations at viewpoints.
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Kopiert!